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Thread: Rust prevention

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by lowell holmes View Post
    Johnson Floor Wax keeps the rust off my tools in Dickinson, Galveston County Texas.
    One can will last 10-15 years. This is in a wet climate.
    Lowell, how long does it last before rust starts up again? I realize all tools are differen based on use...but a general idea...

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charles Lent View Post
    Automotive waxes and anything else containing silicone is banned from my shop. Silicone is next to impossible to completely remove once it gets on something. When it gets on your wood it will create major problems when it comes time to apply finish (stain, polyurethane, etc.). The finish will develop fish eyes wherever the silicone is. Sorry to bring you the bad news.
    I've run across that problem, as well. If/when it happens, you can sometimes work around it by adding a product called "Smoothie" (sold for auto painting work) to the finish. Ironically, I believe it contains silicone, of all things!

    I've also heard you can apply shellac over the fisheye, then finish as normal, though I've never tried this.

  3. #18
    What I like to do is apply the wax to the machine with an orbital sander with a automotive scotchbrite pad on the sander. The scotchbrite pad will adhere very well to the hook and loop. Of course it ruins the sander for other applications but I got a cheap HF sander I use for that purpose only. With the scotchbrite pad you end up polishing the metal at the same time.

  4. #19
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    In addition to the above mentioned actions, about a year ago, I ended up with some excess interlocking floor mats. I had always worried that the cardboard I uses to cover the machine surfaces when not in use might attract moisture. So, I cut the excess mats to fit the machine tops as a trial. After about 1 1/2 years in an semi-insulated shop located in coastal humid Maryland, with only a wood stove for heat & no AC, the surfaces remain pristine. I have concluded that their closed cell foam is superior to cardboard in reducing/preventing condensation from forming on the surfaces.

    Historically, I have used Johnsons paste wax. The next time I clean & are-wax a surface, I am going to try the catalyzed wax (contains no silicone) I use on my autos.

  5. #20
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    Give this link a read: LINK
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ben Rivel View Post
    Give this link a read: LINK
    In the link they use Denatured alcohol to remove all of the WD-40, could mineral spirits be used to do this same thing.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Blighton View Post
    In the link they use Denatured alcohol to remove all of the WD-40, could mineral spirits be used to do this same thing.
    Never mind I answered my own question. Mineral spirits would not be good to use because it is distilled from petroleum and could leave an oily film.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Blighton View Post
    Never mind I answered my own question. Mineral spirits would not be good to use because it is distilled from petroleum and could leave an oily film.
    Yep. I have also found that kerosene leaves a bit of a film too which I have used denatured alcohol to remove.
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Blighton View Post
    Never mind I answered my own question. Mineral spirits would not be good to use because it is distilled from petroleum and could leave an oily film.
    Mineral spirits shouldn't be a problem if your going to wax it. According to the SDS SC Johnson Paste Wax is at least 60% mineral spirits (Stoddard Solvent).
    Beranek's Law:

    It has been remarked that if one selects his own components, builds his own enclosure, and is convinced he has made a wise choice of design, then his own loudspeaker sounds better to him than does anyone else's loudspeaker. In this case, the frequency response of the loudspeaker seems to play only a minor part in forming a person's opinion.
    L.L. Beranek, Acoustics (McGraw-Hill, New York, 1954), p.208.

  10. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Blighton View Post
    I have read alot of different things about rust prevention on the boards. I have a question about paste wax, everything I have read says apply it to help protect against rust.

    How is everyone applying it, by hand with a rag and then using some sort of buffer to polish the surface?

    What have you found to be the best way to apply?
    Would you happen to have been thinking about that Excalibur router table from the other thread? I just got to thinking, wouldn't it be wonderful if you could take some EvapoRust and paint it on the cast iron table, let it sit for a bit and then wipe it off (disposing of the rags safely of course.) Specifically to that situation, I would be tempted to try that.

  11. #26
    For any part that can't be immersed, EvapoRust recommends saturating paper towels with their solution and placing them on the surface and letting sit for awhile (I am paraphrasing the directions, there was a step or two more...)

  12. #27
    I’ve been using the Johnson PW for the cast iron tables and plywood/MDF jigs for a few years with pretty good success. Also, I use Boeisheild T-9 for hand tools and hard to reach places. I’ll give a quick wipe down after a spray and I keep the rag for that in a zip lock bag.

  13. #28
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    I can't answer that, but my can is many years old.

  14. #29
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    Mar 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Dawson View Post
    Would you happen to have been thinking about that Excalibur router table from the other thread? I just got to thinking, wouldn't it be wonderful if you could take some EvapoRust and paint it on the cast iron table, let it sit for a bit and then wipe it off (disposing of the rags safely of course.) Specifically to that situation, I would be tempted to try that.
    Quote Originally Posted by Timothy Thorpe Allen View Post
    For any part that can't be immersed, EvapoRust recommends saturating paper towels with their solution and placing them on the surface and letting sit for awhile (I am paraphrasing the directions, there was a step or two more...)
    So I bought some Evapo-Rust to try and use. I decided to try it on the Excalibur router table but with a top that is 32 x 24 it would be kinda hard to immerse. I read somewhere to soak cotton rags in the Evapo-Rust and then wrap with cellophane. I did this and it just didn't seem to work very well. Even though the rags were wrapped with cellophane some of it dried and it just didn't see to work as advertised. I how do you soak something thats bigger than any container you have, you build something. I cut down the biggest (24.5 x 34) heavy duty cardboard box that I had and lined it with plastic, not the prettiest but hopefully it will work. I took a gallon of Evapo-Rust and placed the router top in it last night and hopefully this evening when I pull it out it will look a lot better.

  15. #30
    If you're not used to wax on your TS top, be aware of the reduced friction and possible safety risk. When boards and jigs move around quicker than you're used to, just be aware, that's all.

    No I didn't get hurt, but I'm posting this just because of a close call.

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