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Thread: Tablesaw dust collection hood

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    Upland CA
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    FastCap sells a brush like material that is fastened to a flexible roll. It is peel and stick. I wonder if that would complete your setup, allowing less dust to escape around the blade.

    They sell it to install around CNC router setups. Looks like the brush part is about 1 1/2 to 2" tall.

    I saw it about two years ago, and assume they still have it.


    PS: Looks like you made a nice zero clearance insert. Care to share more pics of it, or did I miss that while I was gone.
    Last edited by Rick Potter; 10-14-2019 at 12:40 AM.
    Rick Potter

    DIY journeyman,
    FWW wannabe.
    AKA Village Idiot.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    MA
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    1,752
    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Potter View Post
    FastCap sells a brush like material that is fastened to a flexible roll. It is peel and stick. I wonder if that would complete your setup, allowing less dust to escape around the blade.

    They sell it to install around CNC router setups. Looks like the brush part is about 1 1/2 to 2" tall.

    I saw it about two years ago, and assume they still have it.


    PS: Looks like you made a nice zero clearance insert. Care to share more pics of it, or did I miss that while I was gone.
    I have seen those brushes. I think I may go for the swing down side panels instead (if it even needs it). On the other hand, wouldnt take much to stick on on the front edge.

    There is still plenty of tweaking needed to be sure. Right now the hose is a 2.5" that I had instead of 3", which is on order. And some couplings to get rid of the clunky tape. And will swap that blast gate for a metal one. The hose that goes to the back of the saw that T's off, I have another drop I put in at the same time along the back wall - I think I will run hard pvc along the floor to the back wall for that hookup just to get everything clear of the top surface. But then I have to step over it each time using the J/P, so a tradeoff. In the mean time there really isnt much that I will have to move it out of the way for as is... so its just me, like the cleaner setup of having the top clear.

    I did make a quick ZCI out of wood while some phenolic on order. It is about 1.6" wide, so 1.5" wide aluminum bar stock was not enough and I didnt feel like milling from 2" wide, and it was starting to get a little spendy. I may still... but in the meantime ordered a square of phenolic to use. The insert itself took about 15 mins to make out of wood - simply mill to thickness width length then put a shoulder on one edge so it sits flush. The trick was that the countersink I have isnt the sharpest, so it wanted to come off line when I countersunk with a hand drill, due to the (white oak) grain pulling it one way. And they do need to be pretty deep, it is thin in that section, so they go most of the way through. But hey they work.

    I did have another set of small pieces to trim yesterday. Some were quite thin 'slithers'. I flipped the fence to where the smaller edge was the guide, and used the FF stops and lowered the hood. Between that and the ZCI it worked quite well. No dust, but also those slithers didnt go underneath the blade and clog everything. A couple times I thought they were going to get sucked up the chute though... but they stayed down. Using the FF jig properly, the guard really isnt in the way that much because you set distances with the table slid in front, where you can see everything, then just push it through. It could be a black box at that point.

    Having the remote for the DC turns out to be a huge improvement. Overall a bunch of cuts, and my shop air was TREMENDOUSLY improved over what it would have been prior. Over due!

    Havent milled a slot for the riving knife (but need to), nor the scoring blade (which threw the belt a while back anyway, is hard to adjust, so I dont use that much unless plywood). Plus about 20 other things I 'should' do...


    20191013_094814_resized.jpg20191013_094832_resized.jpg

  3. #33
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    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    I's nice you're already seeing a difference in the amount of "splash" coming off the top of the blade, even without further tweaking. Perhaps I missed it...did you set things up so you can move the guard laterally to aid with clearance relative to the fence when it's in tall mode or to clear a jig?
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #34
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    May 2008
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    MA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    I's nice you're already seeing a difference in the amount of "splash" coming off the top of the blade, even without further tweaking. Perhaps I missed it...did you set things up so you can move the guard laterally to aid with clearance relative to the fence when it's in tall mode or to clear a jig?
    I did not. And this may be something still to come.

    Instead, I just slipped it off the mount and sat it on the right side of the fence (no dust collection for those cuts). It comes on and off loosening one knob. Knowing me, I might live with it like this for many years, it is not obvious yet that I will need to do that very often.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    Upland CA
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    Thanks Carl. Glad to see someone making progress. Tonights task for me was to start figuring out how best to store the various fences and other parts while they are not being used.

    My Son in law picked up my old saw today, and we got it on his trailer without any problems.
    Rick Potter

    DIY journeyman,
    FWW wannabe.
    AKA Village Idiot.

  6. #36
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Don't underestimate what carriers can do even to "sturdy" things, Carl.
    I once bought a Hay-Budden 60# anvil from a guy in Georgia. Shipped UPS, it arrived in a sturdy plywood box - it was in three pieces! I can only imagine that the ability to cause such damage is a requirement for employment at most of the national shipping companies.

  7. #37
    Brian, have only heard the saying " that guy could break an anvil in a sandbox", but guess there really are guys working at UPS who can do it!

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    860
    A tip speed of 100 mph is part of the problem. I slowed my saw with a 1750 rpm motor and a VFD. Sure it cuts slower, sometimes this wastes 2 or 3 seconds in a single cut! That adds up. I normally run at a tip speed of around 40 mph. Much quieter. The saw makes bigger sawdust and throws it less. A full speed saw provides way more than optimal tip speed at normal feed rates so I get a good quality cut with less burnishing.

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