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Thread: Framing Question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    19

    Framing Question

    So I am building a small 8Χ10 lawn shed. My question is on the end walls I need to start my stud layout from the end that will be added when I raise the wall so as to mimic where the siding will start

    So I need to subtract 3.5 from my start point and make my first mark at 19 3/4. (24” Cl) Sound about right?

    So do I pick up the 24 center from that mark by moving the tape or do I need to stay pulling from the added 3.5 which would put my marks at 43 3/4 67 3/4 & 91 3/4.

    Im thinking stay with the 3.5 subtracted all the way out but it doesn't come out right.....

    I know newbie question LMAO

    MR
    If you like your freedom, THANK a vet !

  2. #2
    OK, so locate your first stud, then move your tape to that point and lay out your studs from there. Don't make it more complicated than you have to.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Eastern Iowa
    Posts
    447
    I always started at the 48” on center mark and worked my way back from there.
    Comments made here are my own and, according to my children, do not reflect the opinions of any other person... anywhere, anytime.

  4. #4
    Yes you're thinking is on the right track.

    24 to the first stud - 3 1/2 = 20 1/2 (center). Mark at 19 3/4 marking ahead |X or 24 3/4 marking back X|.

    Then put you tape on the first mark and go 24" from there, marking ahead.

    I suggest you go with 16" centers you will get a stronger wall and your siding will not bow or buckle.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Leesville, SC
    Posts
    2,220
    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Engel View Post

    I suggest you go with 16" centers you will get a stronger wall and your siding will not bow or buckle.
    I agree with Robert. I would go 16" on center.
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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    2,992
    Make sure you figure out the stud location before you place the bolts in the foundation. I made my end studs 1.5' taller then the sides. That way the top stud was just one piece but still overlaped at the corners.
    Bil lD

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Alberta
    Posts
    1,073
    Ok. So been a carpenter for 25-30 years. You can do it like Robert tells you ,or you can just make all your marks 3/4'' short then mark your x ahead. 98% of framers I have worked with layout this way. There is no subtraction in layout,math errors screw things up,simply hold your tape 3 1/2'' past the end of your plate and mark away. Third vote for 16'' centers.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    4,050
    3-1/2 plus the thickness of the sheathing on the wall meeting the first wall up. This way, the sheathing forms a proper outside corner. For the second up 2x4 wall with 1/2" sheathing, I've have the helper hold 4-3/4", arrow(two lines to a point,with the point being the measurement) the 16" stud marks on the tape, and X ahead. Then go back and put a line across, with a square, on the arrows. For the first wall, we wouldn't add the sheathing thickness. The extra 3/4" lets the sheathing hit the center of the studs, with no extra factor to account for, or having to remember which side of the stud marks to add the 3/4 to.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    USVI
    Posts
    39
    We usually bump ahead 1/4” if we’re using 1/2” ply. This (usually)eliminates any trimming on the outside corner after the walls are stood up and tied in. So, holding your tape 3 3/4” past the plate your first Mark is at 15 1/4”. X past the mark. Normally I drive a nail here to hook my tape for the rest of the marks . 16” and go. I’m a little bored this morning so here ya go
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