Make your strut lengths long enough to carry your air lines too. I have a half dozen 10'x1 5/8" strut that I use for a temporary vertical support rack. I have some angle clips screwed to the rafters. With those I can anchor the strut vertically, add horizontal supports and it makes an upright square & level support at the elevation I choose to work at. I did a pretty large metal fence for the place and was able to fab up the 5x8 panels on the strut rack. It kept me off my knees and/or saved a lot of walk around time on a table. The rack takes 15 minutes to set up and about 10 to stow.
Have you considered going with 1/2" plywood on the walls and just clamping the EMT to the plywood?
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The advantage of the plywood is you can put light stuff almost anywhere on a wall. I set my plywood walls with a decent grade of ply set vertically. All of my power is down fed so I can be into any section of wall for mods in a short time. I was going to go with 10’ ply but the cost led me to the 8’ and a 2’ with a belly band around the joint. I think it looks great, it takes a hit better than rock and it is a shop. Function first
I think emt requires a ground wire anyway so no savings there over PVC.
Bil lD.
Local codes apply, but in NEC EMT can serve as equipment grounding conductor; no separate ground wire required. You do need a jumper from any receptacles ground terminal to the box unless receptacles are rated as self-grounding (and screw-on metal cover is used). Most new 120 receptacles are now self-grounding; but most 240 are not. If EMT is fed via romex, the ground wire in the romex must be bonded to the EMT.
Last edited by Paul F Franklin; 09-18-2019 at 11:09 PM.
Please reconsider the drywall. I've had it both ways & currently have painted OSB. I would not want to go back to drywall. Plywood is more expensive, but would give you the clean look.