Favorite technique for cutting a long, wide rabbet with the grain?

[James Waldron]

Resaw the maple, rip one of the pieces to the proper width, and then glue them together to form the rabbit.

Not the most efficient Neanderthal technique. Ripping hard maple with a hand saw is not for the faint of heart. But knock yourself out.

Oh, you meant to use a table saw? Cheat!!!

Unless you actually meant your hand cranked band saw??? If so, I retract my comment.

[Joel David Katz]

Not the most efficient Neanderthal technique. Ripping hard maple with a hand saw is not for the faint of heart. But knock yourself out.

Oh, you meant to use a table saw? Cheat!!!

Unless you actually meant your hand cranked band saw??? If so, I retract my comment.

Didn't the OP say "This is for an interior trim project and I need to fit them around some framing lumber in the archway into my den." I strongly suspect this "framing lumber in the archway of my den" wasn't milled using hand tools. As such, my technique is an easy way to accomplish his goal regardless of the tools he chooses to resaw and and rip his seven foot boards.

[steven c newman]

And...you lose the thickness of the saw's kerf
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My usual way..or.
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2 cuts on the tables saw...
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Sometimes, I get a bit fancy...
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When I need to make a few rails....for frame and panel sides...

[Matthew Springer]

Thanks for your help everyone. So after doing the first one all with the 10-1/4, I decided to try a variant of the technique Warren and Dave alluded to one the next two. Worked out much much faster.

The gist is:
- Score the final rebate depth and width shoulders with your marking gauges.
- Take your plow plane with an iron slightly wider than the side of the mouth of a bench plane. (for cleanup)
- Run a groove down the long face of the board just outside your score mark using your plow all the way to final depth.
- Take you narrowest plow plane iron and run it down the jointed edge of the board just inside you score line. It need not be full depth (which is the final rabbet width) but if it is, good for you, you're done.

You should now have a defined outer shoulder and an inner shoulder at depth. You have a couple choices at this point:
- You can waste out the rest of the rabbet using a bench plane set super coarse. The groove you cut in the face will act as your depth stop since you chose a plow plane iron wider than the side mouth. I keep my number 6 with no camber at all on the iron so I did one this way (Full disclosure, that board was flat enough, I used the slider to help hog out some of the waste).

- Your other choice is to take your biggest, coarsest rip saw and cut in the side of the board to cut out the rabbet all in one shot. I did one this way and it was faster. The main thing is you will get a lot of sawdust clogging the teeth since there's nowhere for the sawdust to go in the blind kerf.

Either way, clean up with a rabbet plane at the very end. It was way faster sawing stuff out, but I still needed to cleanup a lot with the planes. But it was 10-15 mins vs 30 mins.


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[Nicholas Lawrence]

Looks good. Nice work.

[Jim Koepke]

Looks good. Nice work.

Ditto

jtk