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Thread: Lifting spiral pipe for installation

  1. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Pratt View Post
    Just how many cuts will you be making? I really don't see the need for a roller jig & think you'd have to make 100's of cuts to recover the time it will take to make the jig. Sometimes simpler is better.
    4 8" pipe cuts, 22 6" pipe cuts and 3 4" pipe cuts, 29 total.

    I like making jigs because I can get repeatable accurate square cuts. I plan to use 12 1" and 10 2" nylon fixed castors I ordered from Amazon for $31 and some scrap plywood I have laying around. Maybe one Saturday to build. I figure after paying close to $800 for Spiral pipe I can afford to be a little bit more careful on getting the cuts right and well worth the time invested. Oh, I'm also a bit of a perfectionist and I approach projects like this a "FUN" and not a chore that just has to done. This is the last shop I'll likely ever build before I retire in about 5 years and I plan to spend a whole lot of hours in it as I grow older. *I* am the most important tool in my shop and Dust collection will be done well as it may be the second most important tool in my shop so that I stay healthy.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Dixon View Post
    4 8" pipe cuts, 22 6" pipe cuts and 3 4" pipe cuts, 29 total.

    I like making jigs because I can get repeatable accurate square cuts. I plan to use 12 1" and 10 2" nylon fixed castors I ordered from Amazon for $31 and some scrap plywood I have laying around. Maybe one Saturday to build. I figure after paying close to $800 for Spiral pipe I can afford to be a little bit more careful on getting the cuts right and well worth the time invested. Oh, I'm also a bit of a perfectionist and I approach projects like this a "FUN" and not a chore that just has to done. This is the last shop I'll likely ever build before I retire in about 5 years and I plan to spend a whole lot of hours in it as I grow older. *I* am the most important tool in my shop and Dust collection will be done well as it may be the second most important tool in my shop so that I stay healthy.
    I did all the cutting on one of those plastic tables with the folding legs, which are great general purpose things to have around. The duct was marked with a Sharpie and a piece of heavy poster board wrapped around the duct as a guide. The jig saw worked very well, but that metal cutting saw you have would be so much faster. I totally get why you want to make the jig. Lots of times it's not just the destination, but the journey as well.

  3. #18
    FWIW, I wanted to do it all to the 'nth level too. By the end of install and still today I realize if the system design is good, some details aren't worth sweating.

    I tried the Drywall lift because I had it. Abandoned early on in favor of an oversized loop of cable and lots of up & down ladder. The lift was just too clumsy because of the machines already in shop. The long loops could easily be shortened by a pull on cable clamp.

    Easiest and fastest way to cut pipe was with metal abrasive blade in 4 1/2" angle grinder and die grinder to deburr. I tried the caster roller setup and found it clumsy like drywall lift. Marked with sharpie, pulled masking tape around pipe as guide. With some practice I could cut pretty darn straight freehand and in fact now employ the methodology more elsewhere.

    Eyehooks and Kwikwires and wire rope were sourced for cheaper on eBay and stockpiled in anticipation of project.

    In places where I couldn't hit bottom chord of trusses, I spanned with a jointed, planed and painted 2X4.




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    Last edited by Peter Rawlings; 09-18-2019 at 1:23 PM.

  4. #19

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Rawlings View Post
    Easiest and fastest way to cut pipe was with metal abrasive blade in 4 1/2" angle grinder and die grinder to deburr.
    That's a very nice installation Peter.

    But a metal cutting saw will cut faster than an angle grinder & leave virtually no burr. Just a really quick swipe with a file will take away any sharpness.

  6. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Pratt View Post
    That's a very nice installation Peter.

    But a metal cutting saw will cut faster than an angle grinder & leave virtually no burr. Just a really quick swipe with a file will take away any sharpness.
    Dito what Frank said. That's a very nice looking installation. In my case however I'll be using 3/8 threaded rod with teardrop hangers. I don't/won't have a place to connect wire anywhere on my ceiling which is why I need a lift of some sort or an extra helper.

    Pipe-Hanger-TD-Drawing.jpgSammys.jpg

  7. #22
    I just drew a line with a Sharpie around the pipe where I wanted to cut. Then I secured the pipe and used a Sawzall with a metal blade in it. it worked quite well actually.

  8. #23
    Join Date
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    I made a pipe wrap from two 14'' long sheets of paper and duct tape. Cut with my jigsaw and pop riveted most of it together.Also used some self tapping screws. A half round file will be your friend as well. Sealed with the aluminum foil tape. Be prepared to make changes as time goes on,machines get moved,new ones follow you home etc. Also no matter how well your system is figured out,something will not quite work the way it is supposed to. The good part is after doing the whole system you have the skills to change things. DAMHIKT. Good luck.

  9. #24
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    Well put Mike. I installed a snap lock system in a very similar fashion, with a sharpie line and jigsaw, just without pop rivets.

    As said, you can plan these things as much as you want but it usually doesn’t all go as planned.

  10. #25
    Progress Report
    So on Monday I ordered all my spiral pipe and fittings from Blast Gate Co. They shipped it on Wednesday and it arrived yesterday. Woo Hoooo! I unpacked it it today and took a couple photos. I also punched some holes in the wall for the main trunk and return air.

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    Last edited by Tom Dixon; 09-21-2019 at 10:16 PM.

  11. #26
    Progress Report
    So today I had fun making a Jig to cut spiral pipe and got my first piece of the main trunk installed that connects to the DC. I secured the DC to the floor with 1/2" lag screws after getting the pipe connected. I also installed the return air filter vents. Below is a video of the first time trying the jig. I was pleased with the results.



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    Last edited by Tom Dixon; 09-22-2019 at 9:41 PM.

  12. #27
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    What happens when you change to another pipe diameter ?

  13. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Kees View Post
    What happens when you change to another pipe diameter ?
    The castors should be good for 6" after I cut all the 8" and get the main trunk installed. I will need to trim the height of the 2x6s to lower the saw though. If I planned to do this all the time I would make a more permanent version using T-track so it was adjustable.

  14. #29
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    Have fun Tom. It was just the first thing that I thought of when I watched your video. This is your journey and you get to decide how and when you reach your destination. I will say that you are really going to like that cyclone, and you will be happy that you went to the extra effort to put it outside of your main shop. I wish I could have done that.

  15. #30
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    Looking good Tom. If I’d have had a bigger, more open shop, think metal pipe would be the way I went too. The jig appears to be working well. Could have used that for my 6” pvc as I cut it all free hand which didn’t always match up once I got around the circle. LOL

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