Outdoor Table Design?

[Erich Weidner]

I'm looking to build several outdoor tables for my pub. They will be outdoors all year round, but under a covered patio, so no direct water. (Well, spilled beer, but not rain).

I'd like to avoid gaps in the boards if possible (a-la picnic table) or at the least minimize these gaps. Region is central Texas.
Anyone have ideas?

Another consideration is that I'd like the tops to be as flat as possible as much board-gaming is done on these tables.

[Jamie Buxton]

So the requirements are: flat, no gaps; and pretty water resistant. Formica on plywood would fill those requirements.

[Edward Dyas]

I'm in the Dallas area so I know the weather here. For an outdoor table the sun would be the only issue and if it's covered a table should be easy enough. Still anytime you have furniture outdoors you have to keep an eye on it and give it maintenance when necessary. You know eventually someone will be carving on the table with a knife. As long as these places are repaired when ever you find them you should be alright. It would be best if you would choose a wood that does well outdoors anyway. You could use pressure treated pine as long as the wood was dried first. It comes from the factory dripping wet and if it's not dry a finish won't adhere and also the wet wood is prone to warp. I'm doing just a deck for someone right now that I purchased the wood and stacked and stickered the wood and allow it to dry a month before I do the job. If you want a nicer wood you might use white oak. White oak hold up well outdoors where red oak turns black and rots easily if gotten wet.

There really isn't any reason you have to have gaps in the top. As long as you allow for wood movement you can glue up an entire picnic table top in one piece. Over time the width of the top will shrink and you have to mount the top in a manor that the top is allowed to shrink.

For a finish wood outdoors experiences more wood movement than interior wood so you need a finish that is elastic enough to deal with that movement. A marine grade spar varnish would be a good finish for that application. Epifanes is the best. It is available at places that sell boat supplies. A cheaper spar I've had good luck with is Cabot spar varnish. I'm able to get it at the Lowe's near me.

[Mark Klika]

Erich, did you ever find plans and build this table? I'm looking to do the same. Strangely, I can't find much on the web or in the WW magazines I subscribe to. Mark

[Lee Schierer]

What size table are you looking for? Round, rectangular, or other? Preferred base type?

[Mark Hennebury]

Teak...............

[Jamie Buxton]

Teak...............

$40 per board foot

[Mark Hennebury]

Only got to buy it once!

$40 per board foot

[Curt Putnam]

For a finish go to a SW paint store and get some # 4 tint base (or whatever they call it now.) Has all the benefits of paint but dries clear and shows off the wood. Much cheaper than Ephianes.

[Mel Fulks]

3/4 “ good one side plywood covered with glued on cotton duck (aka “light canvas”) . Glue and wrap top and edges . Glue and tuck under
to bottom. Prime and paint. Repaint when you see any wear. Old proven method that was used on porch floors etc. Can be left in rain if
top is left with blocks under table legs for quick drainage.

[Thomas McCurnin]

Mel is spot on, forgot about this

We bought a circa 1901 home with an outdoor porch that had this construction. Worked until 2010 when we re did the area.

[John TenEyck]

MDO. Works great for outdoor signs and will work great for you tabletops, too. As long as the edges are sealed it is nearly impervious to the weather.

John

[Erich Weidner]

Hi Mel. Interesting. Seems like canvas would trap the water against the plywood and destroy it in short order. If it works for boats and Thomas' porch... must be something to it.
Will try googling to see examples.

[Mark Hennebury]

Why not just use plywood and epoxy paint , should last about 20 years.

[Mel Fulks]

Erich, many years ago ,19th century or earlier, they just used the paint as the adhesive as well as the weather protection. I use Tite-bond 2,
then coat with acrylic primer and paint.