Save a Unifence.

[Joe Bunn]

I am new to Sawmill Creek. I joined this forum because it seems to be the one that comes up as I google.

Last weekend I bought a Unisaw (34-802) that I have since found out was built in 1991. It has not been well cared for, but not over used (according to the previous owner's son). I got a great deal IF I can save the Unifence with the 52" extension.

The cursor is broken, seems they no longer exist.

My real concern is if it can be made to slide easily and lock down properly. I don't want to order the nylon pads only to find out this thing is done for. It would lock in some places on the track, but not in others. Now, the extension table needs to be rebuilt, the black frame the saw sits on is bent and the particle board top is done for. Also, my first job this weekend is to get rid of rust on the table top. Both of those problems affect the working of the fence.

I only learned what a unifence is a couple weeks ago. Any words of wisdom about how I can decide whether to put more money into this? A good website with videos and pictures? I don't want to start rebuilding the extension table until I am sure I am keeping the aluminum track.

Any help getting started would be greatly appreciated.

[johnny means]

You need to inspect the extruded rail. These are, in my opinion, the original sin of the Unifence. It taints everything that is great about the entire system. Anyway, if the extrusion is worn and gouged on the inside locking surface, it's toast, and will almost certainly never work well.

[Bill Space]

Where are you located?

[Joe Bunn]

I live in the Chicago burbs, but the saw is 2.5 hours west of here, I will only see it on weekends.

[Joe Bunn]

That is what I was thinking. How to know? If the area close to the blade feels rounded over more than the ends, then it is done for?

[Tom M King]

I bought a Unisaw cheap, a long time ago, that also was missing the nylon pads. Looking at the cost of those pads, and didn't really get excited about that fence anyway, I just bought a Biesmeyer for it. If I had it to do over again, I'd probably buy a https://vsctools.com/shop/table-saw-fence/, and make the rail for it by their plan.

[Mike Kees]

Joe, I have messed with a lot of Unjfences. Occasionally there will be a small burr that needs filed down but that is the worst I have had to deal with. Check to see if the rail is straight. It would take falling off a truck to bend one of these things. On the head of the fence I have a bag of nylon set screws from Mcmaster-carr to replace the wear screw in older Unifences. I have also found new cursors on the auction site. It is my favorite t.s. fence.

[Peter Rawlings]

I think there's two different ones depending on vintage of fence.

Google shows some resources and images. Google "Unifence Plastic Cursor" I tried to link but no joy, not sure why. I found both.

[Edward Dyas]

Those fences often don't clamp down parallel with the blade. I think you would be better off to upgrade to a more modern fence like the Biesemeyer fence they are using now. I know it's more expense but it really adds to the value of the machine.

[Peter Rawlings]

Those fences often don't clamp down parallel with the blade. I think you would be better off to upgrade to a more modern fence like the Biesemeyer fence they are using now. I know it's more expense but it really adds to the value of the machine.

The fence changed because ownership of Delta changed, if I'm not mistaken. They have their weaknesses but so do all. BTW, they're adjustable. Had the same fence since 1980 and I run about .015 wider at back. Never a problem reaching and holding that tolerance.

[Cary Falk]

Amazon has a cursor for sale as well as ereplacmentparts. There are 2 different versions of the fence depending on the age. I don't remember how to tell but I think the information can be found on the OWWM website. I would inspect the rail for any obvious problems. I used the Unifence on a friends saw and hated it. The locking of the fence was unnatural to me and didn't always get it to lock down right. It may be you just aren't used to the motion. It could also be that you need to adjust the fence locking mechanism so that you have a little more clearance for it to rotate and lock.

[Joe Bunn]

Thank you. Found one, everyone I found said discontinued.

[Rob Charles]

Joe, I have messed with a lot of Unjfences. Occasionally there will be a small burr that needs filed down but that is the worst I have had to deal with. Check to see if the rail is straight. It would take falling off a truck to bend one of these things. On the head of the fence I have a bag of nylon set screws from Mcmaster-carr to replace the wear screw in older Unifences. I have also found new cursors on the auction site. It is my favorite t.s. fence.

I share Mile's opinion. I like my Unifence. The cursor inserts are readily available.

[Edward Dyas]

I think every shop I worked for had that model Unisaw. Most of the time they would lock down parallel with the blade but you always had to measure the fence at front and back to be sure. I bought a Unisaw nineteen years ago which came with the Biesemeyer fence and it's never failed to lock down parallel with the blade. Now this Unisaw I bought, the rest of the saw I was pretty dissatisfied with it. The arbor is a little oversized to where when I get a new blade I have to take a grinder and enlarge the arbor hole. Then the wooden extension is made out of particleboard and they neglected to make a way to fasten it to the cast top. It's suspended from the fence system and now sags quite a bit in the middle.

[Ray Newman]

I ran a Uni-saw and Uni-fence for almost 30 years. 'Nevva' had a problem with the fence not staying/being parallel when locking or locked down. The trick is to pull back on the locking handle, them lock it down.