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Thread: Oh did I mess up!

  1. #1

    Oh did I mess up!

    I'm making a table for a friend -- 1" cherry, 38" x 92"

    I've been liking Odie's Oil, so I decided to use it.

    I made a couple of oop'es during planing and thought "Oh, I'll just fill it in with epoxy, just like I'm doing with the cracks and imperfections"

    So I fill in holes, cracks, etc., and the planing dips with epoxy. So far, so good.

    Then I put Odie's Oil on and the epoxied planing dips stand out like a sore thumb! All glossy and wet looking. Yuck!

    But wait, that's not all. I had forgotten she wanted the cherry stained dark, like a mahogany.

    So now I've got a finished table top with small areas of dark, shiny epoxy showing and the rest a nice oiled cherry.

    Any advice on how to fix these two blunders would sure be appreciated.

    Thank you,

    Joseph

  2. #2
    I'm not familiar with the Odie's oil. If it is something that dries completely you could put a satin finish over the top and if you didn't put it on real thick it would look pretty close to an oil finish. The epoxy color problem is another story. If you have the means of spraying you could add some color by shading the light spots with an alcohol based dye stain before you put the satin finish over the top.

  3. #3
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    As long as the planing dips aren’t too deep, they should be able to be sanded out. Did you stain after the epoxy and oil? Stain won’t penetrate either of those. So both will need to be sanded off in order to get an even stain coloring. The epoxied cracks should be fine as long as the stain is wiped off them.

    Cherry doesn’t stain well either, but it will darken naturally over time.
    Last edited by Bennett Ostroff; 09-11-2019 at 1:59 AM.

  4. #4
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    Joseph, you might just want to let it be. As Bennett said, cherry will become a very nice medium to medium dark carmel color with exposure to sunlight. You may just want to take it out into the sun. In fact, I have a cherry table with mahogany inlay, and after a year of aging, the mahogany is just slightly darker than the cherry.

    I was going to start out by saying that I think staining cherry is a sin, but religion discussions are not allowed here at SMC
    Last edited by Phil Mueller; 09-10-2019 at 9:05 PM.

  5. #5
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    Just looked up the MSDS and it looks like you put a non drying oil on the table. Since you have to deal with some divots anyway, it’s time to do some serious sanding. I had a Similar situation with a walnut table I recently built. I noticed very slight divots where I scraped the epoxy filled knots. I sanded these areas with a flat block and coarse paper. I then continued with coarse ROS sanding over the whole top to blend it would in. It’s going to take a good bit of time to get through the oil but you need to remove it completely. Finally I’d use some king of film forming finish if you want the sheen of the epoxy to match the rest. If it has to be darker look into transtint dyes or use lye.

    Dan

  6. #6
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    If its a non drying oil I would wipe it with the appropriate solvent until it looks as clean as possible. This might take several wipings using lots of fresh rags. Then sand it really well, or hand plane it first and then sand. Optimally you should get rid of the epoxy patches but it's OK if some is still there. For a new finish I would apply one or two coats of dewaxed shellac, sanding lightly in between. With a sealed surface you can then apply a gel stain or glaze to get the color you want. Over a sealed surface these products won't blotch and they will cover over any epoxy areas w/o problems. You may need to apply more than one coat to get the hue you want. That's fine, even preferable, as it allows you to adust the color to be even everywhere. Once that's dry, apply another coat of dewaxed shellac, and then your topcoats.

    John

  7. #7
    I looked up the Odie's Oil and it's a mixture of non-drying oils and waxes. Nothing can be applied over the top without stripping it first.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Joseph Skoler View Post
    ...Odie's Oil...I decided to use it.

    I made a couple of oop'es during planing and thought "Oh, I'll just fill it in with epoxy...
    "Oh did I mess up!"

    You certainly did.

    Strip all of the oil. Remove the epoxy patches and replace with matching wood. Then refinish.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  9. #9
    Update: I scraped and sanded and wiped with acetone repeatedly. I sure got a lot of the oil out and off, but I'm certain not all of it.

    I tried to remove the epoxy patches, but some were just too deep.

    I scraped and sanded to 1200 grit, applied several coats of Varathane Premium stain and then reapplied Odie's Oil. It came out great, except the one area with the big epoxy patch.

    Here's what I've got:

    59110534608__7FF95402-160B-4764-8C3A-8FFDBC2E2007 (002).jpg40792B8D-A509-4855-8C33-3DFA2A0C0444.jpgC1415C18-ADB9-4C03-B7DD-5AF2873A06B1.jpg

  10. #10
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    Not sure why you would use the Odie's oil again.

    Couple of suggestions if you want to fix it...

    I assume the light splotchy area is the epoxy patch and not a shadow. If so, you need to do another stripping of the table. This time, sand much more. I would actually plane it down to bare wood and then sand it. That epoxy patch had to be visible after the first stain coat. You have to get to bare wood under this patch. Then stain it if you must. If you can still see the patch or places where there is oil, sand it again. Then, get your bottle of Odie's Oil and toss it outside until you are done with this table. Now, get some oil based varnish, or even a DRYING oil finish and have another go at it. Or see the other posts above and use some shellac to seal the remnants of the Odie's oil in if you need to.

    Also, no need to sand to 1200 grit...220 is fine...maybe 320 or 400.

    Dan

  11. #11
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    I, on the other hand, think the table looks great. You can just consider the "patch" as pre-ordained "character" if you don't want to do the dance again.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  12. #12
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    Nice table. I wonder if a more gloss finish would have helped to hide the shiny spots in the second photo. My inclination (as a frustrated perfectionist) would be to sand until the epoxy is gone and feather the sanding so the divot is less obvious. You might also consider having someone with a wide drum sander taking a shot at it. On the other hand, if you are satisfied now, all is well. Good luck!
    Rustic? Well, no. That was not my intention!

  13. #13
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    I noticed that the MSDS for it says that it is a blend of food grade oils and waxes. Maybe the wax part of it is what causes trouble with a finish coat.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stan Calow View Post
    I noticed that the MSDS for it says that it is a blend of food grade oils and waxes. Maybe the wax part of it is what causes trouble with a finish coat.
    Interesting...I wonder if the oils they use are drying oils or have to be renewed occasionally. And I agree that could explain the behavior over the resin.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Mueller

    I was going to start out by saying that I think staining cherry is a sin, but religion discussions are not allowed here at SMC
    Thanks for the chuckle, Phil.
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 10-14-2019 at 7:50 PM. Reason: fixed quote tagging!

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