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Thread: Bent laminations for a Morris chair

  1. #16
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    May 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Powell View Post
    I ended up fastening the back portion of the arms with a screw through the top into the side real and covered with a flush plug.
    Something to consider - add some countersunk holes from the BOTTOM edge of the top rail before assembly. Then you can screw the arm arm on from underneath and no plug needed. Yes it is screw hardware so may not be for everyone, but I chose to do this to ensure the arm was firmly attached.

  2. #17
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    May 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carl Beckett View Post
    +1 on this - except I just tranferred the arm profile to the glued up side then followed it on the bandsaw and cleaned it up on the horizontal belt sander until the profile matched.
    I thought about doing this also but thought my method above may be easier for folks that don't have bandsaws big enough to handle the heavy side assembly.

  3. #18
    I’ve built 2 Morris chairs loosely based on multiple plans (including the one in Wood magazine). I have 3 suggestions:

    1. Don’t use 3/8, you’ll get too much spring back. Although thinner pieces require more gluing, the lamination is much less stressful if you aren’t straining to clamp it enough. On my second one, I use a vacuum bag and it was much easier.

    2. As others have said, bend the arm first then cut the side to fit the resulting curve. I did it the other way around on my first one and hand to use 2 screws to counter the spring back. (The screws aren’t visible but I know they are there.)

    3. The flat surface of the arm is results in a lot of cups/glasses placed there. On my second chair, I inlaid a piece of tile to protect the finish
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #19
    When you laminate wood in a form it tends to spring back some when you take it out of the clamps. The thicker wood you use the more it will try to spring back. You can use thicker wood but you need to make the form with more curve. It would also help if you would soften the wood by steaming it.

  5. I'm also building a Morris, using the same plans as a guide. I decided early on in my planning to use four thinner laminations, rather that the suggested three. The curve is very gentle - 4600mm/4.6 metres is what I used after drawing it in sketchup using the dimensions they give in the drawings. 3/8, or 10mm, seems very thick, even for a slight curve.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    Cedarburg, WI
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    I am in the final stages of finishing a bow arm that I started several years ago, after doing all the hard work it got set aside!

    Anyway some thoughts:

    1) The Paolini FWW article is very good guidance. The online video workshop is excellent too. In addition his YouTube videos provide additional tips. I used his recommended 4 laminations of 1/4” each.

    2) Carl’s above suggestion about screwing from under the arm is a good idea, I thought of this only after cutting the curve on the upper rail so did not do this. What i did do to insure against glue failure or poor glue line where the bottom of the arm meets the top rail is:
    a) Placed a screw (you could us a dowel) through the edge of the arm and through the through tenon. The holes were plugged with shop cut white oak face grain plugs.
    b) I also used ebony wedges in the through tenons. Not only does this lock the joint but also tightens any fit issues with this tenon. The ebony matches other accents I used.

    3) I used the plans used by Paolini and sold by FWW - these are labeled “American Furniture Design.” I also like the Prairie Settle designed by Kevin Rodel so I incorporated some of his details in my chair:
    a) Rodel style corbels with floating splines
    b) Rodel style side slats with square holes
    c) Curved lower rail
    d) Square ebony plugs at the major mortise & tenon joints

    4) I like the idea of the inlaid tile as a coaster - I may do this. Motawi makes some tiles that would be nice for this. I have thought about making the through tenon flush so as not to interfere with setting something on the arm.

    Now that I am nearly done with my pair of chairs I will say, they are a lot of work but they are fantastic.
    Cheers, Bill Fleming

  7. #22
    I am building a Morris chair based on a design from Paolini which looks similar and used (4) 1/4 inch boards from mahogany and it worked well. Didn't have much springbuck but used urea glue in a vacuum press.

  8. #23
    Another note.

    You may be shocked when you find out how expensive it is to have cushions made. I originally was going to use leather until I got a price. Went with good quality fabric and it was still really expensive. Keep in mind I live in the bay area and labor costs are very high.

    This is how the arm looks with an inlaid tile for use as a coaster

    IMG_3468.jpg
    Last edited by Jim Barstow; 09-12-2019 at 11:58 PM.

  9. #24
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    One thing I forgot to mention, is the wood grain. I tend to use wood that has some imperfections and not perfectly straight grain (many times I prefer the design aspects of this). When I did 3 thicker laminations on the first chair, one area that had end grain run out on the top surface, splintered out slightly when I clamped. I ended up flipping that laminate deep into the stack.

    When I did 4 laminates, this did not happen (even though the wood was 'less perfect' even). So 3 seems to put more stress in the wood.

    If you have perfectly straight grain that doesnt run out to the top surface it likely doesnt matter. If you have imperfections or any end grain fibers, I would vote for 4 laminates.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
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    Michigan
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    So "bend it first then make the chair fit the arm" is good advice. Don't be too quick though. Finish shaping it, put on some finish and let it rest a few days. Then make the chair fit the arm.

  11. #26
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    Dec 2004
    Location
    Cincinnati, OH
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    924
    I am not experienced with the technique but have read that kiln-dried hardwoods do not respond to steam in the same way as air-dried wood. True?
    Rustic? Well, no. That was not my intention!

  12. #27
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    Just to put it in perspective, for a given thickness you might bend KD wood to a 12" radius. AD wood at the same MC might go to 10". Green wood might go to 6"

  13. #28
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    Jun 2014
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    Western PA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Barstow View Post
    Another note.

    You may be shocked when you find out how expensive it is to have cushions made. I originally was going to use leather until I got a price. Went with good quality fabric and it was still really expensive. Keep in mind I live in the bay area and labor costs are very high.

    This is how the arm looks with an inlaid tile for use as a coaster

    IMG_3468.jpg

    Jim is not kidding. Leather upholstery will surprise and maybe even take your breath away. For two chairs and two ottomans, i think the local shop was $2200-2500 total. The work is phenomenal and the chairs are among the most comfortable ive sat in--herman miller aeron is hard to compete against. Really expensive project, and it could have been worse. I didnt buy the most premium king ranch hides. My stuff is fantastic and i love it, but i could have spent 50% more on just the hides.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    MA
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    For what its worth, and some will say blasphemy!

    These chairs for me are every day users. So I did the upholstering myself by buying fabric off fabric.com. I purchased a used memory foam mattress off craiglist that I then sliced up, used the padding/cover from, and made slip covers with the fabric.

    It is not heirloom quality. But it came out perfectly acceptable for the function I was after (3 kids and two adults even wore out my professionally upholstered couch after a few years). Someday I may decide to do something more professional, but to be honest I doubt it, will just make another slip cover.

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