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Thread: Please educate me about buffers and polishers

  1. #1

    Please educate me about buffers and polishers

    A while ago I made the mistake of leaving some pressure treated wood sitting on my table saw overnight. In an effort to polish out the stains that it left I ordered some cheap wool polishing pads from Amazon that said they were "hook and loop" with the intention of putting them on my random orbital sander. That works, but they're not very effective because the sander is just too slow. They came with a disc attachment that has a captive threaded shaft in the middle that moves, then there is a plastic disc that also moves. Would an actual polisher have some sort of mandrel that tightens down and holds the disc in place? I was hoping to be able to rig come up with some sort of ad hoc apparatus to chuck it to my drill or angle grinder. Best way to do this? See photo. Thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    DFW, TX
    This appears to be a ROS pad to go on a 6" angle grinder. Might be able to work with a drill, but it would have to be a big corded one. Don't think that a cordless would last very long.
    Is there a problem with just using your ROS with progressively finer grits? Boeshield Rust Free does a great job removing spots like that with little effort.
    It's never too late to have a happy childhood.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    US Virgin Islands
    Blog Entries
    I don’t think you need to buff it- just sand with fine grit progressing to 1500.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Highland MI
    Blog Entries
    I have made the same mistake more than once. Step one is to scrape off the excess rust with a razor blade scraper, then hit it with WD40 and go at it with a grey abrasive pad. Still end up with a slight stain, but no further rust.
    NOW you tell me...

  5. #5
    OK, so I put naval jelly on the stains last night and I made the problem exponentially worse. Now the stains are spread around in the pattern in which I applied the stuff. I ordered some of the boeshield rust free. I think I will attack it with an orbital sander tonight and stop pouring chemicals onto it. I probably should have just accepted the marks and left it alone.

    But I also discovered that I let the pressure treated sawdust collect on my mortiser (don't ask) and have a similar problem there. Some penetrating lubricant and steel wool seem to have mostly taken care of it so I will probably just wax it and leave it alone.

  6. #6
    I wish I had tried the boeshield rust free before wasting time screwing around with the other things. Amazing.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Dickinson, Texas
    Blog Entries
    I would hit it with a pad sander and then a coat of Johnson floor wax. It works for me in Galveston County Texas where the humidity will cause excessive rust. One can of wax will last your life time and probably some of your heirs.

  8. #8
    I cleaned all the cast iron surfaces of my tools with the boeshield rust free then sprayed and wiped off two coats of boeshield t-9. I am now wondering if I should apply wax over the t-9 or if that would do more harm than good. I usually use Trewax

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