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Thread: Finish on a Fair Show Box

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    NW Ohio
    Posts
    50

    Finish on a Fair Show Box

    I am working on making a fair show box for a friend, definitely a break from the normal woodworking that I am used to, but still a quick fun project. I am planning on using our big torch to do a "burned" finish on the pine plywood then trim it out with natural pine. My concern is if I burn the wood then apply some kind of oil finish will I still have to worry about people getting soot on their pants if they sit on the box? I am not real familiar with wipe on oil finishes so any suggestions as to what to use would be appreciated. I am used to spraying lacquer on my normal projects and I'm out of my element here. And I got a 1 week notice and this need to be done Sunday so that's adds some fun. I am planning to burn the box tomorrow after work then trim it out and finish Friday.

    Thanks in advance for any help you may be able to offer.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    209
    Hi Dylan. Just curious, why are you leaning towards an oil/oil-based finish? Given your short timeline, a water-based finish, sprayed lacquer, or even shellac might be ideal.

    And I think any finish that builds at least a thin film should seal in the soot.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    NW Ohio
    Posts
    50
    I am mainly thinking a rub on oil based finish that can be renewed every so often. This box will be outside during the fair and probably live it's main life either in a garage or a barn. I am worried if I do a film type finish it may peel from the swings in humidity and chances of getting wet. Maybe it is not a concern if the whole thing is sealed, but I do not know.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,859
    Bennett brings up a good point...you do not really have enough time for an oil based finish to cure if you need this box ready for Sunday...and with a wipe on version, you're going to need 10-12 coats to equal 2-3 brushed on coats of an equivalent product. De-waxed shellac for warm color followed by multiple coats of a water borne EXTERIOR clear might get you there, however.

    And yes, the finish will seal in the "soot".
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    North Virginia
    Posts
    341
    One of the keys here is to use a wire brush and lightly go over the charred area. This knocks loose any ash. Personally, I would seal the piece with Shellac. Brush it on at a 1 pound cut and let it dry a few minutes. Go back over it with some 000 steel wool or pad. Remove the dust and top it with some 2 pound shellac to build a film coat. It can be done in an afternoon.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    NW Ohio
    Posts
    50
    Well guys it is all done and delivered. I ended up taking Bennett and Jim's advice. I used a water bourne spar varnish. This was my first time with a water bourne finish. I normally spray oil based lacquer. The first coat did not go well, lots of rums because you definitely cannot lay this stuff on as heavy as I'm used to. I ended up with 5 sprayed coats, sanding after the 3rd and 4th coat with 320 paper. The finish turned out great and the client was very happy with the finished product! It is not fine woodworking but it beats the heck out of most the boxes seen at the fair. Thank You all for the advice.

    fair box (1).jpg

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