Felder Eccentric Clamp Question

[Greg Parrish]

I didn’t get much done tonight as I spent a fair amount of time figuring out workflow for cutting straight edge on boards and then ripping into 1.5” strips, but also because I went to mount my new (and first ever) Forest Woodworker II 10” blade and it wouldn’t Fit my arbor. After reaching out to Forest via my retailer, the options were to sand it myself or return it, but they wanted me to sand the hole with a 1” dowel wrapped in Emory cloth first.

After a bunch of fiddling, I got it to fit but sure was disappointed to start my first Forest experience that way. Once mounted though it did a great job.

[Jim Andrew]

When I bought my Hammer K3 Winner table saw, I ordered some Tenryu blades from Carbide Processors, which were made to fit the Hammer arbor. They fit perfectly, and are the best blades I have ever used. Do clean them often, whenever I change from rip to crosscut, I put a blade in a plastic pan, and spray it with LA awesome ammonia cleaner. Let set for a minute or two, then scrub with a tooth brush, then rinse with plain water and dry.

[Mike King]

ICross cutting with the outrigger fence works just fine, but requires a lot more concentration to insure that the material stays on the fence as you push through the cut; easy with panels/sheet goods, but more of a reach with solid stock. I work mostly with solid stock so that likely affects my preference here.

Yet another reason why air clamps are the nuts!

Mike

[Jim Becker]

Gregg, Forrest's bores are always "really close" and they tend to fit snug on most arbors that are accurately sized. Yes, it's a pain at first, but it's also an advantage if you think about it. Zero play means the most accurate fit. But yea...a couple of thou of room would be nice to allow it to be mounted without too much extra effort.

[Greg Parrish]

Thanks. I’ve read good things about them too. I ordered a 12” combo blade for rip/cross cutting in hard wood, and 10” plywood blade to use with sheet goods and my scoring blade. Will see how they compare as they are about 1/2 price of the Forrest.

Right now, I have one Hammer blade, 2 Felder Silent Power blades and 1 Forrest Woodworker II blade. The Hammer, and one of the Felder blades were well used and appear to be dull and need sharpening. It was a real treat to install the brand new Forrest blade and see how nicely it ripped and cross cut hard wood.

Want to build up a few of each type I use so that I can have a rotation for cleaning myself and sending out for sharpening as needed.

Thanks again.

When I bought my Hammer K3 Winner table saw, I ordered some Tenryu blades from Carbide Processors, which were made to fit the Hammer arbor. They fit perfectly, and are the best blades I have ever used. Do clean them often, whenever I change from rip to crosscut, I put a blade in a plastic pan, and spray it with LA awesome ammonia cleaner. Let set for a minute or two, then scrub with a tooth brush, then rinse with plain water and dry.

[Mark e Kessler]

So true, I didn't think I would use them as much but the cuts are amazing because their is no movement when cutting plus ups the safety factor to a new level

Yet another reason why air clamps are the nuts!

Mike

[johnny means]

Am I picturing this correctly? The crosscut fence mounts to a point in the T track?

[Greg Parrish]

On my saw, it mounts to a block/t-nut in the track, as well as clamping to the side track. I think the 700 is similar but the hammer units are different.

Am I picturing this correctly? The crosscut fence mounts to a point in the T track?

[Erik Loza]

...Not as heavy-duty as the Felder clamp, but very convenient.

Dan, thanks. Hadn’t seen these before and need to bookmark them.

Regarding eccentric clamps in general (regardless of brand), there is definitely a learning curve to using them. Between the amount of pressure they can exert and the “pulling travel”-type movement, I’ve had them distort and shift panels. You just need to be aware of that and ready for it. One trick that Sam showed me was to use a small square of leather under shoe of the clamp. It won’t mar panels, allows you to be a bit more forgiving in the height positioning of the horizontal arm, and also takes up some of the shift that happens when the clamp locks down. Hope this helps.

Erik