Carl, it's interesting that you have a square fence rail on your machine...my S315WS slider has a round rail and I can (and do) tilt it up when that's appropriate for what I'm trying to do.
Carl, it's interesting that you have a square fence rail on your machine...my S315WS slider has a round rail and I can (and do) tilt it up when that's appropriate for what I'm trying to do.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
My recently acquired '03 MM CU300 Smart also has a square tube. I would prefer the round tube also, but no luck. I doubt I will use the fence much anyway, and I have a nice spot to hang it nearby.
Last edited by Rick Potter; 09-13-2019 at 11:25 PM.
Rick Potter
DIY journeyman,
FWW wannabe.
AKA Village Idiot.
It is one of my bigger peeves for this setup. I tend to switch back and forth a fair bit between stations (would definitely prefer separates, but my shop is used for a variety of project types including metalworking/mechanic and is squeezed for room, so I concede a compromise.
But it means taking the fence on/off a fair bit (sometimes simply to make room to cut a wider piece via the sliding table). I do not have a place to hang the fence when not being used, so it gets put on the floor. Even put a ding on the end once that had to be cleaned up with a file to make a smooth surface again.
I think even if it was round I might need to remove it to switch to the planer mode, since the tables need to swing up/out. Maybe. Will study it some more... if a fence could be tilted up and enable the top to be clear, and at the same time allow the planer mode tables to swing out, it would be worth an upgrade.
Still learning how to work in larger blocks of wip. But to be honest, that takes away some of the satisfaction (I dont really enjoy the process engineering/planning aspect, gain more satisfaction from more freestyle approach). This combo does allow me to get more equipment into my shop.
It occurs to me that for a full combo, the square rail may just be the best way to have it removable. The round rail fence (SCM/Minimax) could only come off by sliding it all the way to the end after the associated stops were removed that prevent the fence from coming off. The ability to tilt it up as in a photo above is an accommodation to allow for crosscutting something without interfering with the fence...when the actual fence is slit back and the assembly tipped back, everything can be below the surface of the saw table.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
This weekend I added a T-track to the top edge of my F-F jig, and made a couple stops. it was quick.
Then realized, I could use my INCRA miter as the back half of the F-F and have stops already built in. In fact, I could simply use the miter and trap wood to the stock cross cut fence, instant F-F jig including flip stops. The only thing missing might be some no slip strips (stick on sandpaper would do this without giving up squareness.
20190906_191209_resized.jpg
Brilliant!
Reverse the F&F jig on my K3, where the crosscut fence is at the foot of the slider!
Regards from Perth
Derek
That's a good idea, Carl. Just be sure the stops/scales on both sides are calibrated identically.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Well poop. I let the guy that bought my PM66 have my Incra 1000HD since everyone said there would be no use for it with a slider. Should have kept it I guess.
With the wixy appears it cannot fully be rotated out of the way as shown below as I first thought...
96AFD7A7-F612-486F-83DE-F9D75CB5594C.jpg
Last edited by Jim Becker; 09-05-2024 at 10:23 AM. Reason: fixed quote tagging
you are a woodworker; mill a piece of hardwood to the dimension of the slot on the slider. replace the miter bar on the I-Box with that hardwood and align the result to the saw blade. It doesn't have to be as complicated as below, but you will see the application...
https://groups.io/g/felderownersgrou...er%20KF700.pdf