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Thread: Anchor Bolts

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    Huntsville, AL
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    Anchor Bolts

    OK, something I am unfamiliar with, but I get the concept. I have to run blocks across my shop concrete floor to create base for a divider wall. 24 feet with a door in there somewhere. Blocks are 12" tall. Guess I need some tall anchor bolts to secure sill. Concrete floor is 4" thick or better. How would u do this? what length anchor bolts? sourcing?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Central MA
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    1,253
    Id use a +/- 4 read head anchor, a rod coupling, and an appropriate length of threaded rod every 4. Long anchor bolts are much more expensive.

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Red-Head...SABEgLcXPD_BwE

  3. #3
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    Jun 2008
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    Huntsville, AL
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    Ok, so bury that in the concrete floor, then couple a Threaded rod to that?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Cumberland, Maryland
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    324
    The blocks are going to be mortared to the floor correct? If this is simply a divider wall I would only concern my self with anchoring the sill to it.
    A standard 6" or 8" L shaped 1/2" anchor bolt will do fine in a filled block cavity.
    You only need 2 tools in life. If it's supposed to move and doesn't... use WD40. If it moves and shouldn't... use duct tape.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    Peshtigo,WI
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    812
    I'm not understanding why you need the block. If it's an inside non supporting wall why not just use a treated bottom plate and anchor that to the floor with redheads or conserts?
    Confidence: The feeling you experience before you fully understand the situation

  6. #6
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    Jun 2008
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    Huntsville, AL
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    Yes. Divider wall. Blocks mortared to floors. My initial plan was ti use L anchors as u suggested. Im gonna go with that. Thank u

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    Huntsville, AL
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    Jerry, I dont want walls touching floors. I want all walls,exterior and dividers off concrete floor

  8. #8
    You could just drill holes in the floor that line up with the cores in the blocks, put some 6" pieces of rebar in the holes so it sticks up a few inches, align the blocks in a straight line, and fill the cores with concrete mix. Put your anchor bolts in the concrete mix to fasten your treated plate to. The concrete in the cores will make everything solid. Still need some mortar between the blocks.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    772
    Blocks will work but being thicker than the wall they will create ledges to get in the way and catch dust. Better to pour a 5" wide wall. A few rebars into the floor to keep it from sliding.

  10. #10
    Use 4" concrete block, and your wall with sheathing can be close to even. Add 1/2" strips, and your sheeting can drop below the joint a slight bit.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    USVI
    Posts
    39
    I would anchor 1/2 or 3/8 galvanized threaded rod into the existing floor and tie a piece or two of rebar across horizontally, form it then pour it. Its not that much concrete. Drop your bottom plate over the rods , nuts washers etc.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Medina Ohio
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    3,787
    When I was building houses and needed to do this we would use concrete expansion material between the wood and concrete then use a ramset to anchor the wall. It keeps the wall up about 1/2 inch

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    2,992
    I use 1/2 all thread grouted into drilled holes. Drill the concrete to about 5 inches or to just before the bottom which ever is shorter. Pure cement is as strong as the concrete. epoxy is quicker but costs much more and you do want the smell inside while it cures. Or you can use the packets of epoxy.
    make sure to use square washers or you will not meet code.
    Zoro is the cheapest source of all thread and it arrives in 3 days or so.

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