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Thread: finishing around a troublesome knot area

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    finishing around a troublesome knot area

    I have this large (3") knot in a prominent place on a tabletop. I am going to be using dye (sanded back, like for curly maple) to pop the curl in the otherwise very tight grain (pear) of the top and I am not sure how to partially seal the knot grain to control the dye absorbance, as well as filling the major tearout. Normally I'd use a sealcoat of thin-cut shellac, or glue-sizing, as well as CA glue on the tearout. But I'm afraid if I just seal the knot area with anything, its going to change the color and be more visible. Thin grain filler? Any
    suggestions appreciated.

    I can't avoid using this piece of wood as I dont have another wide pear board.

    knot tearout.jpg

  2. #2
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    If you are careful applying your dye, you should be able to largely avoid the knot altogether during application.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
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    Thanks Jim. I guess I want it to absorb some dye (like I would on the end grain of the boards), just not get significantly darker in a way I couldn't sand back or would stand out from the field. I am going to have to carefully experiment.

    (edit) Normally you have to sand the end grain to a higher grit or use a sealer to control the color depth. Its the combination of end grain and large amount of tearout that's giving me pause.
    Last edited by Stan Calow; 09-02-2019 at 11:46 AM.

  4. #4
    Maybe you are using the wrong dye. I use Mohawk, Ultra Penetrating Stain and it stains very uniform easily. It has to be sprayed though.

  5. #5
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    It’s going to look darker either way. I’d dye it like the rest and sand it back to where you like it. I’d fill that tear out with epoxy too.

    Dan

  6. #6
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    Thanks for input guys. I'll figure it out eventually.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Stan Calow View Post
    Thanks Jim. I guess I want it to absorb some dye (like I would on the end grain of the boards), just not get significantly darker in a way I couldn't sand back or would stand out from the field. I am going to have to carefully experiment.

    (edit) Normally you have to sand the end grain to a higher grit or use a sealer to control the color depth. Its the combination of end grain and large amount of tearout that's giving me pause.
    As for the tearout I take a more neanderthal and simplistic approach. I break out the belt sander and make it go away.

    Carefully using with a 120 grit belt will make short work of it. I am finishing up a western red cedar project and that stuff tears out and chips out if you even look at it hard. Belt sander and a lot of hand sanding afterward with a very hard backer to keep things flat worked for me.

  8. #8
    First, I think you really need to address that tearout. If you are uncomfortable using cabinet scrapers or a tuned plane to do this, I'd work it carefully with a ROS. If you use a sander, you have to sand wide and feathered to avoid creating a depression.

    I wouldn't seal with anything prior to dye. I'd be more comfortable with a dye than a stain on this. However, I personally wouldn't use anything. you have good color as it is. My opinion.

    I would sand this and your whole top up to 400 grit then dye. This will mitigate blotch, without adversely affecting absorption.

    Don't be ashamed of that knot. With the adjacent curl, and color drift, it's quite beautiful.
    Last edited by Prashun Patel; 09-06-2019 at 4:49 PM.

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