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Thread: Help with Cabinet Scraper

  1. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Engel View Post
    Wei,

    Yes, IMO you should use a real burnisher. Put a little oil on it. William Ng has an excellent video on prepping a scraper.

    I don't think the 45 bevel is really that critical you need a jig. At least I've never used on. On another note, I've often wondered why it is even necessary. Perhaps someone could enlighten me on that.

    I say this because it seems to me the plane body is holding the blade at an angle pretty nearly the same you would a freehand, and there is no bevel on those at all.

    Regardless, my point was what is critical is the angle of the hook to the flat face of the blade. Since the approach angle is set by the scraper, you can't microadjust the angle like a card scraper, so the hook angle has to be just right.

    That said, my other point was a scraper will not take the place of a hand plane. You can either find an old Stanley or better yet, the WoodRiver planes sold by Woodcraft are the best buy out there IMO. I believe a #4 is well under $200.
    When you say hook angle, are you talking about the 10-15 degree angle that's referenced in this diagram? How do I make sure I keep that right since it I'm just free handing when using the brunisher?


    The Woodriver #4 is $199 before tax so not quite well under $200 https://www.woodcraft.com/products/w...-hand-plane-v3
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Woodstock, VA
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    794
    Wei,

    Try polishing the blade and leaving the hook off. I have a Stanley #80 and when I set the blade i place the tool flat on the bench, drop the blade in, tighten down, then use the screw to bow the blade which sets the depth of cut. If the corners of the blade extend below the sole they will leave tracks.

    Keep looking for a good #4 plane, you should be able to find one that only needs a clean and sharpening for under $100.

    Hope this helps!

  3. #18
    Come to think of it, I don't roll a burr on my cabinet scraper blade. I hone it to 8000 like a normal plane blade and use it as is. It works fine that way.

  4. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Bartley View Post
    Wei,

    Try polishing the blade and leaving the hook off. I have a Stanley #80 and when I set the blade i place the tool flat on the bench, drop the blade in, tighten down, then use the screw to bow the blade which sets the depth of cut. If the corners of the blade extend below the sole they will leave tracks.

    Keep looking for a good #4 plane, you should be able to find one that only needs a clean and sharpening for under $100.

    Hope this helps!
    Leaving the hook off? 🤔🤔🤔 Isn't that what makes the cut?

  5. #20
    What do you have the scraper plane for?
    I have a no.80 that I have no use for, and I don't know if there will be an application for it in the future.
    I can't think of any, I bought it for troublesome grain before I learned to use the cap iron, which has made it totally and utterly redundant.
    If your surfacing timber a regular Bailey pattern plane will do a much better job than a scraper plane.

    Look up David Weaver's cap iron article, or watch him on youtube (David W) to learn how to set the cap iron.
    Not many folks use it, but all proclaim to have used it.
    They would have not stopped using it if they done it correctly.
    It totally changes the game.

    Tom

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    Australia
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    Tom; then do yourself a favor and offload that scraper plane to someone else who is going to appreciate its versatility.

    regards;

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
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    SE Michigan
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    Wei, don’t give up on the scraper yet. The diagram you posted is exactly how I prepare my scraper. There is no real need to get exact on the angle, just make a stroke along the 45 degree angle, tip the burnisher a small amount, and take another stroke, and maybe tip a bit more and take another stroke. Place the iron in the scraper as you have been doing and go slow on the thumb screw.

    Keep in mind, all you are looking to do on dimensional lumber is take off the small milling ridges left by a commercial planer. When you adjust the thumb screw, go in very small increments...like a 16th of a turn...you get the idea.

    I love my stanley scraper and use it often to do what you are describing as well as smooth out glue lines and crazy grain. It took me a bit of trial and error, but I did get there. You will too.

  8. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Stewie Simpson View Post
    Tom; then do yourself a favor and offload that scraper plane to someone else who is going to appreciate its versatility.

    regards;
    I would but I don't know if many would be interested, a Veritas one was on the local donedeal site for a good while.
    I wouldnt like to draw attention to myself, and I don't do eBay.

    It might be useful on some warped veneered panel or something like that, a regular cabinet scraper would probably be better though.

    From the sounds of things with your "versatile" comment, that you can think of a valid use for it?
    I'm only learning yet, and not done profile work, only jointing and laminating and that kinda thing.

    I would really like to know of a use for it that a regular plane can't do.
    I was thinking it might be worth a shot should I make custom profiled slip on shoes for it, but it might work better just making one from scratch incase of possible chatter issues with the cutter
    so far protruded.

    Love to hear some thoughts
    Thanks
    Tom

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Woodstock, VA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wei Yang View Post
    Leaving the hook off? 🤔🤔🤔 Isn't that what makes the cut?
    It will make a less aggressive cut without the hook but it will still cut. When I first set up my cabinet scraper I put a hook on it and had bad chatter, etc.

    Give it a try!

  10. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by Wei Yang View Post
    When you say hook angle, are you talking about the 10-15 degree angle that's referenced in this diagram? How do I make sure I keep that right since it I'm just free handing when using the brunisher?
    Practice. Line up the burnisher with the face of the bevel and tilt it just a bit. Once you get it right, then its a matter of reproducing the technique. You could actually use a protractor and bevel to visualize the angle. You'll get it eventually.

    The Woodriver #4 is $199 before tax so not quite well under $200 https://www.woodcraft.com/products/w...-hand-plane-v3
    Oh they sure went up since I bought one. Check for sales.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
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    6,554
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Bartley View Post
    It will make a less aggressive cut without the hook but it will still cut. When I first set up my cabinet scraper I put a hook on it and had bad chatter, etc.

    Give it a try!
    The hook on the blade is what these scrape planes are all about. If your plane chattered, then the angle of the hook was incorrect. Using them without a hook will work, but not particularly well ... certainly not at their potential. Try is again with another hook.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Dickinson, Texas
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    If you don't have one, you need one of these.

    https://www.google.com/search?q=tria...DrQzPmRCKVowM:

    I have the Two Cherrys burnisher.

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