Much of what I buy is 8'-10' surfaced 4/4 teak and mahogany, so is very quick to straighten with the track saw. And I regularly need long lengths for the yacht work, unlike building furniture.
Much of what I buy is 8'-10' surfaced 4/4 teak and mahogany, so is very quick to straighten with the track saw. And I regularly need long lengths for the yacht work, unlike building furniture.
"Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."
My hardwood supplier will straight line any length for $0.10/be ft. Most of my work involves <6' lengths and it's usually not a big deal to straighten on the jointer. If I need longer stock straight lined then I pay the 10 cents. The OP has come up with a clever solution and I've done something very similar in the past on 14' boards. Track saw is nice but for me is too pricey, and cumbersome given the setup involved. Each to their own, eh?
Scott Vroom
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
I appreciate the concern for safety unfortunately I suffer from severe arthritis in both hands. This is as close to a fist as I can make.
P1020499.JPG
The textured coating on the gloves I use increases my gripping strength and allows me to handle material more easy and safely. These gloves fit tight. If the glove became entangled, my hand would have been to close to the blade in the first place.
Last edited by Tipton Lum; 08-26-2019 at 7:36 PM.
hey Brian, I pictured you using an ink line and Japanese saw?
I've done it that way plenty of times, but I do this way now so that I can make a living. Ripping 12/4 anything by hand is a time consuming affair.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
I use an ink line, but then skip the hand ripping and go straight to the bandsaw
Still waters run deep.