Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 23 of 23

Thread: Beall buffing system

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Fredericksburg, TX
    Posts
    2,576
    I have the old Don Pencil buffing system no longer available. It uses a shaft threaded to fit either the 1" or 1-1/4" drive on lathe. I was fortunate to buy both the 8" and 12" shaft in 1-1/4" for my Powermatic 3520B and have the 8" x1" Thread for my midi lathe. The shafts have a 3/8" thread to use a bolt inserted in the buffing wheels. Beale uses a Phillips head bolt that to me is the same as a router bit if you happen to hit your piece with the bolt head. I have replaced all the bolts with flat head "elevator" bolts that require using a double nut trick to lock and tighten the locking nut at the buffing wheel. I have had to go back and drill a couple of small holes in head to insert a rod to use should the buffing wheel slip. The small 3 and 4" buffing balls with 3/8" screw can also be used with the shafts. I also find the making smaller buffing wheels about 4 to 6" diameter work better for smaller bowls than the balls when you can get the wheel inside the bowl. A buffing wheel will definitely grab an edge. I have thrown more pieces buffing by far than any other failure. I definitely believe in buffing with Tripoli - do it before applying Danish oils, between coats, and after final coat. Renaissance wax for final give long lasting fingerprint resistant protection.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    399
    Quote Originally Posted by John K Jordan View Post
    I sometimes use the carnauba but if I do it's very sparsely. Some people use a paste wax applied and buffed by hand with a soft cloth - these often contain carnauba wax. I usually finish up with Renaissance wax.

    Kind of hard to judge from a photo without holding in the hand, but these first four may give an idea of the type of finish I prefer. These are gently buffed with just the Vonax then waxed with the microcrystalline wax.
    JKJ
    Great info, thanks!

    A couple of follow up questions as I’m trying to figure this out - do you put the vonax onto the tripoli wheel or the white diamond wheel (aren’t the wheels different strength/coarseness?)? Or does it matter?

    Is renaissance wax applied and buffed separately or using the wheels? And is it done after buffing with vonax or carnauba?

    As I said, I’ve never done buffing, but it looks like it could take some of my finishes to a whole new level so I’m planning on getting some wheels/compounds, but it’s hard to tell what I’ll really need and use.

    thanks everyone for the help.
    tom

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
    Posts
    12,298
    I think the wheels are all the same. I use the Varnax on the wheel normally used for tripoli, don't use the tripoli any more. I use the white diamond only occasionally when I want more gloss.

    The Renaissance wax is applied as the last step by hand with a small piece of cloth then buffed by hand with a soft cotton cloth (for example, a piece of t-shirt material).

    JKJ


    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Wilson80 View Post
    Great info, thanks!

    A couple of follow up questions as I’m trying to figure this out - do you put the vonax onto the tripoli wheel or the white diamond wheel (aren’t the wheels different strength/coarseness?)? Or does it matter?

    Is renaissance wax applied and buffed separately or using the wheels? And is it done after buffing with vonax or carnauba?

    As I said, I’ve never done buffing, but it looks like it could take some of my finishes to a whole new level so I’m planning on getting some wheels/compounds, but it’s hard to tell what I’ll really need and use.

    thanks everyone for the help.
    tom

  4. #19
    I'm having an odd problem with my tripoli wheel. It's out of balance. My bowls bounce off it. When I hold up the tripoli bar to it, and then stop the wheel, I can see there is a missed spot. Does anyone know how to "true" up these wheels? I do not have the same issue with the other two wheels.

  5. #20
    80 grit sand paper wrapped around a piece of wood. Hold it up against the wheel when spinning and it will remover a small amount of the surface.

    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    I'm having an odd problem with my tripoli wheel. It's out of balance. My bowls bounce off it. When I hold up the tripoli bar to it, and then stop the wheel, I can see there is a missed spot. Does anyone know how to "true" up these wheels? I do not have the same issue with the other two wheels.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
    Posts
    12,298
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris A Lawrence View Post
    80 grit sand paper wrapped around a piece of wood. Hold it up against the wheel when spinning and it will remover a small amount of the surface.
    I use a short length of steel hacksaw or bandsaw blade to "dress" the wheels. This removes any excess polishing compound and cleans up the wheel so it might also true the wheel. I thought about the sandpaper but wondered if it was possible for a particle of grit to get embedded in the wheel. Probably not.

    Also, the wheels feel more solid when run at a high speed. Maybe reduce the speed if running fast.

    Also, could the tripoli be put on too thick? I apply very lightly for just a few seconds and with the speed reduced.

    JKJ

  7. #22
    Thanks, John and Chris. I was able to reduce the bounce a little with the sandpaper. I'm already running at 1750 RPM which is the lowest speed of my grinder.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    College Station, Texas
    Posts
    200
    I make my buffing system and drive it with my lathe. That way I can vary the speed. Get a piece of 1/2" all-thread and drill a 60 degree cone for your live center in one end on your wood lathe using a center bit from HF. Buy the desired buffing wheel and drill a 1/2" hole in the wheel and mount it on the all-thread with washers and nuts. Hold it in your chuck and bring up the live center to stabilize it and buff away.
    Buffing Wheel 1.jpgBuffing Wheel 2.jpg
    Way south of most everybody...

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •