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Thread: Spraying Zinsser 123

  1. #1

    Spraying Zinsser 123

    Hello All. I'm preparing to spray some cabinets and was hoping for some quick tips (besides "experiment") on effectively spraying Zinsser 1-2-3. I'm using an Earlex 500, and I have both a 1.5mm and 2.0mm needle. Does anyone have a thinning ratio that worked for them on this rig?

    Also, as an aside, I've read a few threads on spray booths and spraying in small shops. I'm spraying in my 2-car garage (only waterborne). I plan on draping a large plastic drop cloth from the garage door down to the floor. I'll have the door slightly ajar, maybe about half way up, and I have a mediocre fan at the opposite end of the garage blowing. Does anyone anticipate any major problems with this setup?

    Many thanks,
    Yasha

  2. #2
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    I don't have a ratio, but thin it a LOT. I spray it outside when there is a light breeze, but there are no other houses for hundreds of yards. I keep a cheap, single stage HVLP just for spraying primer that's not waterborne. That's the only HVLP, or use I have for one any more. Pictures were for a ceiling in a fairly large room. Final coats in place were ProClassic.

    Good luck,
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    Last edited by Tom M King; 08-17-2019 at 8:47 PM.

  3. #3
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    Zinsser BIN white pigmented shellac primer would be a better choice, IMO. It has a viscosity of only about 30 sec. through a #4 Ford cup and you should have no trouble spraying it with the 1.5 mm N/N; no thinning required. Moreover, it's shellac based so it dries very quickly and it won't raise the grain like waterborne primers often do. And it's compatible with most waterborne paints, pigmented lacquers, etc..

    Wherever you spray you want air to flow over the workpiece to carry away the overspray. Your proposed set up may work just fine as long as you have a source of makeup air somewhere behind that fan, like an exterior door, a window, etc. You won't get much exhaust if the fan is in the back of an enclosed garage with just the overhead door open, and what you do get comes at the expense of unknown flow patterns.

    John

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by John TenEyck View Post
    Zinsser BIN white pigmented shellac primer would be a better choice, IMO.
    Hi John. I have some BIN around, but I figured since it's not dewaxed it would not be a good choice under the products you had recommended earlier (e.g., the Duralaq and SW ProClassic).

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yasha Renner View Post
    Hi John. I have some BIN around, but I figured since it's not dewaxed it would not be a good choice under the products you had recommended earlier (e.g., the Duralaq and SW ProClassic).
    As far as I know, BIN uses dewaxed shellac. I have used it under pigmented WB products for more than 10 years and never, ever had a bonding problem, including Duralaq and ProClassic.

    John

  6. #6
    Well that is good news. BIN sands so much easier than latex. I just got done "sanding" a window jamb extension I primed with Zinsser 1-2-3, and I ended up using an oscillating palm sander. It didn't quite gum up, but it didn't quite sand either; more like rolled into thin rubbery strands.
    Last edited by Yasha Renner; 08-18-2019 at 4:34 PM.

  7. #7
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    The BIN is what we always use too. On those beaded plywood pieces, and MDF battens, we just hit it in both directions with a fine sanding sponge, and that's all the sanding it needs.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by John TenEyck View Post
    Zinsser BIN white pigmented shellac primer would be a better choice, IMO. It has a viscosity of only about 30 sec. through a #4 Ford cup and you should have no trouble spraying it with the 1.5 mm N/N; no thinning required. Moreover, it's shellac based so it dries very quickly and it won't raise the grain like waterborne primers often do. And it's compatible with most waterborne paints, pigmented lacquers, etc..

    Wherever you spray you want air to flow over the workpiece to carry away the overspray. Your proposed set up may work just fine as long as you have a source of makeup air somewhere behind that fan, like an exterior door, a window, etc. You won't get much exhaust if the fan is in the back of an enclosed garage with just the overhead door open, and what you do get comes at the expense of unknown flow patterns.

    John
    This. Use the BIN primer, not the enamel/latex version.

    I can spray it with a 1.3mm in a 4-stage HVLP turbine. Prior to purchasing that, I had (still have as a backup) the single stage HVLP turbine that was sold under the Rockler name, HF and Tractor Supply. That had no problems spraying the BIN primer either using its largest N/N (1.8mm I think, they aren't labeled).
    Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yasha Renner View Post
    Hi John. I have some BIN around, but I figured since it's not dewaxed it would not be a good choice under the products you had recommended earlier (e.g., the Duralaq and SW ProClassic).
    It is dewaxed. Otherwise it wouldn't work as a near universal primer.
    Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.

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