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Thread: Ducting for DC

  1. #1

    Ducting for DC

    Seems lots of good discussion about Dust Collection, so I'll ask too.

    Looking at the Clear Vue Pentz EF5 with an 8" intake.
    The Idea would be to run the 30' main line at 8", branches at 6", and down lines at 4" or 6" depending on the machine.

    Plan on going to go with PVC just due to the low friction, and low cost.

    I have asked Clear Vue for recommendations...and didn't get a response (yet).
    This is the preliminary design, based on what I've been reading... any thoughts / feedback?
    Pretty simple.. couple sweeping Wyes.

    Duct-Layout.png

  2. #2
    You may find that 8" SDR PVC pipe and fittings may be difficult to find depending on where you live. The price also starts to get much closer to spiral Pipe and fittings at 8". I did detailed comparison drawings of both and ultimately decided to go with spiral pipe and fittings. I have a collection of Sketchup drawings of individual fittings for both on the 3D Warehouse. You can get a much better idea of exactly how you will have to engineer your layout once start fitting together dimensional correct fittings.

    https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/col...ust-Collection
    https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/col...ust-Collection

    I was surprised by some of the limitations on direction and angles that joining pipe and fittings together presented. One thing I notice in your drawing is the pipe you have on the bottom of your drawing isn't connected to the main trunk. That may be impossible to accomplish in reality vs the way it is currently drawn.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    NW Indiana
    Posts
    2,335
    I believe that Menards can get you the 8" pipe if you have one near you.

    I think you would be fine with 6" pipe and still be pulling a real 1,800+ cfm with no problem.

    I considered what size pipe to use with my 5 hp Oneida cyclone and used 8" for 6 ft and then 6". It is significantly cheaper with very little loss of flow.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
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    8,221
    Tim,

    Unless you have big plans for expansion I'm wondering if the ClearVue with the 6" inlet would be sufficient. I don't see dimensions, but I think my shop has longer runs and the CV1800 does an incredible job. I use 6" PVC duct in the attic with 6" drops, spit to 4" near the machines where needed.

    Note that a cyclone is a screamer. I built a 4x8 sound-insulated closet for the cyclone and the big air compressor and I'm glad I did. I can hear a whisper in the shop with either running. The loudest thing is the air rushing through the pickups.

    A metal cyclone sounds like an interesting idea, but one thing I like about the clear plastic cyclone cone is the ability to monitor the function, especially when initially setting up the system. For example, it would be easy to see if a vacuum leak caused poor separation. (It's entertaining and educational, too!)

    JKJ


    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Boettcher View Post
    Seems lots of good discussion about Dust Collection, so I'll ask too.

    Looking at the Clear Vue Pentz EF5 with an 8" intake.
    The Idea would be to run the 30' main line at 8", branches at 6", and down lines at 4" or 6" depending on the machine.

    Plan on going to go with PVC just due to the low friction, and low cost.

    I have asked Clear Vue for recommendations...and didn't get a response (yet).
    This is the preliminary design, based on what I've been reading... any thoughts / feedback?
    Pretty simple.. couple sweeping Wyes.

    Duct-Layout.png

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Fort Worth, TX
    Posts
    104
    I would agree with previous post. I am running a cv1800 with the larger impeller and my longest run is +60'. I would suggest blast gates if you plan to build it that way.

  6. #6
    Where is the planer?

    I went with 26 guage ducting. I just found it easier to find fitting for it than PVC. In particular I like the "pants" style wyes that come with metal ducting. Also there's no static charge built up, so no surprise shocks.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Holder View Post
    I would agree with previous post. I am running a cv1800 with the larger impeller and my longest run is +60'. I would suggest blast gates if you plan to build it that way.
    Max main trunk run would be the 50' diagonal..
    I don't envision much else other than a planer.. and I know they are the worst.
    I don't do that much rough lumber yet.. so to save costs, skipping that for now.

    My only concern with the spiral is just the friction component, but if the raw HP overcomes that, then I guess it won't be an issue.
    Do you spiral users just use duct tape to seal the slip joints, or some other caulking?
    While I like Norfab, I can't stomach the cost of the fittings etc.

    I think it will ultimately come down to visiting the local suppliers, and see what they really have (to avoid shipping).

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Boettcher View Post
    Max main trunk run would be the 50' diagonal..
    Do you spiral users just use duct tape to seal the slip joints, or some other caulking?
    Mastic is my HVAC friend's choice. It goes on like a very thick paint, and you can paint over it if you don't like the color.

    This should be way more than you need. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Water-Ba...BA50/100396973

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    49,210
    Tim, never use "duct tape" (the typically grey cloth like tape) on duct. Use foil tape or mastic...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Medina Ohio
    Posts
    3,758
    I like the plastic duct tape. You can pull it tight and it will seal really well and doesn't break down like the gray stuff

  11. #11
    Thanks guys for all the input...

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Boston MA
    Posts
    57
    You say that you can't stomach the cost of the Nordfab fittings. Please give it some more consideration. I set up my shop with Nordfab 16 years ago and have reconfigured it twice in that time with minimal effort. It's like building with an Erector Set (maybe I'm dating myself!).

    Check out this article and video by Jay Bates for some really good dust collection ideas (even if you don't end up using Nordfab): https://jayscustomcreations.com/2019...st-collection/

  13. #13
    I'll give it another look, and get Norfab to get me a design and quote.
    When I looked at it last the seemed just about any component was in the hundreds.
    I had budgeted like $2k for ducting, but I would not even be able to get fittings for that.
    I'll either have to rethink the budget, or get a less flexible product.

  14. #14
    I used spiral pipe, and fittings. Have reconfigured more than once. Just reused the fittings and pipe. I put all my excess parts in the attic, then they are there if needed. And the zip screws with hex heads are easy to install and take out as well. I do like the aluminum furnace tape for joints, does not come loose, although is kind of hard to remove.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
    Posts
    8,221
    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Boettcher View Post
    I'll give it another look, and get Norfab to get me a design and quote.
    When I looked at it last the seemed just about any component was in the hundreds.
    I had budgeted like $2k for ducting, but I would not even be able to get fittings for that.
    I'll either have to rethink the budget, or get a less flexible product.
    The cost was one reason I went with PVC. The Ace Hardware down the hill carried 6" fittings for cheap, maybe 5 or 6 bucks, didn't keep most in stock but could always get them the next day. They didn't carry the 6" S&D pipe but the commercial plumbing supply places here did. (One even had a pile of pipe rejects with cracks or chips they gave me for free - got a bunch of shorter pieces out of them.) I haven't needed to reconfigure but at that cost I would just buy new. I glued some joints and taped others with aluminum HVAC tape. I like the self-drilling screws near the machines, fittings and blast gates, etc.

    JKJ

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