Bandsaw Tire Repair

[Tom Trees]

I wouldn't bother trying to sand them, I have had good luck scraping them with the side of a plane iron.
My bandsaw had loads of problems, and the tires were bad.
There's a post here on it
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....ire-dress-both

Works well, and I have done this a few times, as it took a good blade to realise that my saw was sound, and it were the blades that were the issue.
Couldn't believe how well it runs now with an Axminster blade,
There must be a good supplier of blades in the States that can guarantee their welds, I suggest you find one.

Tom

[Roger Chandler]

I just replaced the bandsaw tires on my 18" Jet back a few weeks ago. I replaced with blue urethane tires, and they are better than the original rubber ones that came on the saw new. It was easy to replace them following the instructions that came with the replacements. The original rubber one came apart in 4 sections on the top tire. The bottom was still intact, but saw dust takes the moisture out of the rubber and failure will occur at some point. The urethane tires are much more durable and actually give a better grip to the blade to give maximum torque to the cut.

[lowell holmes]

In a nut shell,
https://search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?...l9zcmMiOiIxIn0

[Edward Weingarden]

If the damage was done by the blade stopping/slowing while the bottom wheel was spinning at normal speed, the damage should appear only on the bottom wheel. Since both wheels are showing the same ridge, chances are the tires reached this point together due to age in service.

Remember, the blade turns the top wheel. If the blade slows so does the top wheel. So there should have been no slippage between the blade and the top wheel when that event happened.

Might be time to replace them soon, even if you are successful at dressing them to remove that ridge.

Bill - you are correct; the ridge is only on the lower wheel. I went back and looked at the upper wheel and what I was feeling was the buildup of saw dust. My research tells me that urethane tires are a better option for replacement. Any thoughts on urethane vs rubber?

[glenn bradley]

I have Smoothed/Crowned rubber tires with sandpaper. It is not difficult and I would not hesitate to give it a try. If you go to replace the tires, unless they are specially shaped, I would use the inexpensive urethane tires. I have some that have been running for over a decade.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Replace. My local Woodcraft as the Carter urethane tires on sale now. I have them on my Powermatic and Delta. They work great.

[Kevin Beitz]

Grizzly tools sells new tires.... Heat in hot water makes it easier to put on.

[Edward Weingarden]

Grizzly tools sells new tires.... Heat in hot water makes it easier to put on.

I just ordered the set from Grizzly.

[Randy Heinemann]

Bill - you are correct; the ridge is only on the lower wheel. I went back and looked at the upper wheel and what I was feeling was the buildup of saw dust. My research tells me that urethane tires are a better option for replacement. Any thoughts on urethane vs rubber?

As another poster noted, Woodcraft has Carter Ultra Blue tires on sale. I bought a pair of 14" for $40. Based on my research, these tires would likely last me for a long time and may never need replacement again. For the low price, it isn't worth it to try to repair damaged tires.

[Tom Trees]

As another poster noted, Woodcraft has Carter Ultra Blue tires on sale. I bought a pair of 14" for $40. Based on my research, these tires would likely last me for a long time and may never need replacement again. For the low price, it isn't worth it to try to repair damaged tires.

Foolproof, as long as you ease the cutter into the rubber, approaching the cut at the sort of angle of a scraper plane would, nip up the f-clamp after adjustments.
Take the wheel off to be sure you are square if you have flat tires, tricks of the eye happen in the cabinet with squares and such, probably a good idea even to see if your camber is centered if that's how you roll

As said make plans for dropping tools on your paintjob, worth cutting a bit of scrap ply.
Plan for blocking the back of the machine for the upper wheel beforehand if you need to, as it can be a bit frustrating synching everything down if you go trying to do it quickly.
Have a nice hefty f-clamp for the job.
Truing bandsaw tires.jpg

Good luck
Tom