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Thread: Table Saw Pulley Replacement

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Dickinson, Texas
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    https://www.dealsnow.com/shopping?q=...tent=GROUP18_8

    Check this site to find assistance.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Central North Carolina
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    I think you're going to like that 34-444 saw, now that you have upgraded the pulleys, arbor, and belt. I found one of these saws for my son, cleaned it up and calibrated it, and I was quite surprised how accurately it cuts. It's every bit as accurate as my Unisaw. The original jet lock fence on these saws isn't the greatest, and if you can replace it with a good T fence you will be happier, but the original fence isn't really that bad. The motor on these saws is special. It was designed to provide 1.5 hp when connected to 120 volt power, but will produce 2 full hp when connected to 240 volt power. 1.5 hp is the max that you can get from a 120 volt circuit. Delta designed the saw to be used on readily available house power when the contractor was using it on the job, but when he moved it back into his shop, he could switch it over to 240 volt power and have the horsepower available. A very handy feature. All of the 34-4** series of Delta Contractor saws are almost identical, with minor upgrades between models. All are basically the same and you will need to look hard to see the differences. The one major lacking feature is saw dust control, there isn't any in these saws. There is a fabric bag available that attaches to the cross braces between the legs that will catch what falls straight down, but the open cabinet design lets the saw dust go everywhere.

    Charley
    Last edited by Charles Lent; 08-11-2019 at 9:32 AM.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Lima Ohio
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    12
    Yes, the dust collection really sucks, leaves a big pile under the saw, almost forcing you to turn off my shop fan. As for the accuracy, I absolutely love it, everything seems to be within 98% perfect, any imperfections are usually from the amateur operator (me). Past the primary iron top, the original fence seems to not work in terms of self adjustment, which is probably a rail issue. If I need to rip larger goods the circluar saw does great. Freud 24 tpi blade is perfect, it cuts clean and quickly. Doesn't help the groundwork of our shed is crappy... 3/4" 4x8 on 2x4s on cement blocks. Entire shed is unlevel, trying my best to make due.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Central North Carolina
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    1,830
    Bonnie,

    Make certain that the front and rear fence pipes are equal distance apart across their full length. In moving these saws around they can get bumped and slightly bent. A change in spacing toward the outer ends will surely cause fence problems beyond the main table. This is why I only have the spare fence below. If only slightly bent, someone who knows how can usually straighten them if bent only slightly. Otherwise, you should look for a fence upgrade. A Unifence would be what I would look for, but you won't find a new one, and they are rare, but there are several brands of good new fences available today.

    If you decide that your OEM fence itself is the problem, I have one that you can have (fence only, no rails) just for the shipping costs. In finding parts for, and assembling the saw for my son I ended up with an extra good fence. It's too good for me to face throwing it away, but it's taking up space and needs a new home. Send me a PM if you want more information about it.

    Charley

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    SoCal
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    Sorry I was late. Could've saved some trouble. The Acculink works well. I even have sections mixed with Fenner without issue.
    Last edited by glenn bradley; 08-12-2019 at 10:45 AM.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

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