Ideal DMT Dia-Sharp set-up?

[Dan Jansen]

I came across a fair deal recently and picked up four DMT Dia-Sharp stones and a veritas mk.11 for $200. The stones are 8” x 3” and come in Course (325), Fine (600), Extra Fine (1200) and Extra Extra Fine (8000). I currently use a course diamond stone and finish on a couple of nice but smaller Arkansas stones.

Questions:
1. I’m trying to decide if I need all four or if I can skip a grit?
2. How do you keep them in place while you work? I usually clamp the old one in the vise but these seem heavy enough to stay put so maybe it’s not a big deal.
3. I was planning to use a spray bottle with water but my shop freezes so I was thinking about using RV antifreeze because I have it on hand. Think that’s ok or a bad idea?

[Mark Rainey]

Dan, you only need the 325 for occasional use, such as a nicked blade or flattening a back. Then use the 600 afterwards. The 1200 should be your main sharpening stone, followed by the 8000. For many users, including me, the 8000 is not nearly as fine as an 8000 waterstone. I am ambivalent about it, but it doesn’t gouge. Stropping after the 8000 usually does the trick.

[Joel David Katz]

You'll be a lot happier when you buy a grinder with an aftermarket tool rest (Veritas, Oneway) and use a wheel to grind primary bevels, square up the edge, put a camber on a plane iron, get rid of a nick in the edge, or a score of other useful things to make life easier in the shop. It would take you all day to do any of the above things using a course diamond plate.

[Phil Mueller]

Having all those diamond stones as well, I agree with both Mark and Joel. For maintenance, start with the fine stone. For more edge work, use the course. However, as Joel said, any major work on an iron will take forever on the course stone.

Regrading lubricant, I use diluted windex...don’t know if that will freeze or not.

I just made a wooden tray with dividers that holds four 3x8 stones with a wooden block attached to the front bottom edge to clamp into my vise. So they are all next to each other.

[Tom Trees]

Agreed with Joel 100%
Don't know how much those plates are, but I would consider the thoroughly broken in 4000 dia-sharp from Stu-mac I've got,
costing around fifty dollars, adequate for my needs for plane irons,
I use a washita beforehand.
My hardwood plank strop with contaminated Autosol just got a makeover, carved a handle shape in it, after a good scrape and plane last night.
This I find useful for chisels.
Tom

[Jim Matthews]

WD40 will work, and can be used on steel to deter rust.

I don't know the freezing point.

[Scott Winners]

Dunno about ideal. I got the seasonally (often around Christmas time) "woodworkers set", 300, 600, 1200 and 4000, with the rubberblocks on bolts stone holder included in the kit price.

It works very well for me with a leather strop available after the 4000 grit plate. I do have a bench grinder and a belt sander for faster metal removal.

My shop is climate controlled garage, my equipment tends to ebb and flow around the garage floor with the seasons. I haven't used a lube on these plates yet, but I do wash them in scalding hot water with blue dawn occasionally.

[lowell holmes]

I do not lubricate my DMT diamond stones.

[Aaron Rosenthal]

Lowell, I wish you'd tell me why you don't lubricate the stones.
I use a diluted mix of laundry detergent and water, and I'm scrupulous about keeping the stone slippery when I'm working.
DMT, I understand, suggest mineral oil, but, I find my mix works well for me.

[lowell holmes]

I was not aware DMT needed lubricant. I haven't used it often. It does a good job of putting on a micro-bevel.

[Roger Davis]

Where did you buy the DMT diamond stones?

[Anuj Prateek]

^ This.

Also in my experience after sometime (*) the grits change or stones don't cut as fast. Something like coarse becomes less coarse.

Based on other posts, I sharp often now. Most of the time Shapton 12k is good enough (**) to touch up the edge.

Sometimes 12k starts to take too much time and I drop to Extra Fine (1200). If I had an intermediate stone (say 5k) I don't think Extra Fine will see much use.

Not sure if it's placebo but I think sharpening often prevents nicks as well.

Stupid mistake: Long back, I scored a Amazon Warehouse deal on Extra Extra Fine. I returned it assuming it was bad. The coating was so fine I thought it was missing.


* After painfully grinding primary bevel on 5 chisels and 4 hand planes - grits kind of changed. I am sure it will take twice as long if I attempt it again.

I purchased a Worksharp sometime back and grits less than Fine are used only when edge is >2" (#7 and BUJ). When time comes to regrind #7, I am sure I'll end up making a platform for Worksharp.

** Good enough for me is that it shaves hair but is not super smooth. As I learn more good enough will change

[lowell holmes]

https://www.homedepot.com/s/dmt%2520...20stone?NCNI-5

[ken hatch]

A couple of thoughts on diamond hones/stones. I've used DMT, EZLap, and Atoma diamond stones. Of the three Atoma is the better stone. I've found the EZLap wears quickly, the DMT has rouge diamonds and will leave random deep scratches that are impossible to remove with the next step. Atoma stones work well for setting bevels, repairing bevels and flatting backs and have consistent grit. Because of the character of the diamond scratches other jobs like honing and polishing are better done with other stones, preferably natural but man made work as well.

ken

[Jim Koepke]

As I learn more good enough will change

This has happened, most assuredly, to those who have taken up the sharpening arts for centuries if not millennia.

A few days ago an Arkansas stone was purchased for my grandson at Lowes. A good starter stone at ~1-1/2 X 6". He was also given a piece of translucent hard Arkansas stone to take home to keep his chisels and plane irons sharp.

jtk