Yellow Cedar burl bark removal

[Peter Blair]

I think yellow cedar burls are about a pretty a burl as one can find. The problem for me it to remove the bark without damaging the spikes that protrude into the bark. Has anyone had any luck removing the bark? Presently I pick away at it with dental picks etc but boy is it time consuming. I cut this small chunk about 6" x 6" from a large piece and have spent about an hour so far picking and it appears that it will be several more hours. I have the rest of this burl to clean and 3 other pieces as big or bigger. Really not planning to spend the rest to my life picking bark even though it is soooo nice to cast in resin. Thanks in advance for the ideas.
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[Thomas Wilson80]

This may be just my ignorance as I have never turned any burl of any type, but why not leave the bark in? It gives a nice contrast to the wood.
Just curious, especially if so time consuming to remove.
Thanks,
Tom

[Dwight Rutherford]

Try pressure washing.

[Ernest Roy]

Peter, as Dwight says pressure washing big leaf maple, birch and yellow cedar burls with the deadly spikes hidden under the bark has always been my go to for removing all but the most stubborn bark.
A good soaking with Hot Cloth and more pressure washing usually does the trick for me up here in Squamish!

[Alex Zeller]

Have you tried soaking it? I have lots of yellow birch but none with burls. The bark usually comes off pretty easily. The biggest problem I've found is that there's lots of voids and bark in both the sap and heart wood. It also likes to check if not careful.

[Peter Blair]

Thanks everyone!!! Yellow Cedar as Ernest says has these deadly spikes under the bark Which are, in my opinion the highlight of the burl. On second thought maybe not, as the curl and eyes are wonderful as well. Yesterday I bit the bullet and got all of the pieces out and my gas power washer and went to work. I was covered with black dirt and bits of bark from head to foot an hour later but did manage to get about 80% of the bark off. Thomas this is a good question, for some reason these burls are covered with a kind of black dirt and bark, not very appealing kind of look like a big black cow turd. This covering can be inches thick in places and as a result it is VERY difficult to even tell where the bark and dirt ends and the wood begins. I don't often work with burls but in my estimation Yellow Cedar is at the top of the list! I have included a few photos from yesterday but didn't take one of the dirt covered guy operating the pressure washer. Hard to see in these photo's are the deadly spikes and that there are 5 wonderful pieces of burl.
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[Jeffrey J Smith]

Peter - just a few weeks ago a good neighbor dropped several yellow cedar burls from a friend who builds logging roads out on Vancouver Island. He collects any burls they come across in the process...nice stuff to turn, although a good percentage of what I got has been fairly plain onion-type burls - without the distinct pins and eyes that make bark removal a chore. The bark on these was easily peeled off for the most part. From your description, it sounds like you got root burl - the best kind in my opinion. I have more experience with Madrone and maple burl, but pressure washing has always been the easiest way to get most of the bark off even though it has a tendency to spit it all right back at you.
If it is root burl, look out for hidden rocks buried deep within.
This has been my first experience turning cedar - or any softwood for that matter (other than our local Big Leaf Maple). I'm surprised at how well it machines/cuts and looking forward to getting the rough-outs dried and finished. Been told that some people react to yellow cedar, but have had no problems with what I've turned so far.

[Peter Blair]

Thanks Jeffery good info. Not sure where these burls grew but they came from Vancouver island. As far as pressure washing goes. Next time, if there is a next time I'll suit up in my waterproof rain gear. Boy did I get dirty yesterday. I am primarily using these burls in Alumilite castings and the exterior with the spikes makes for some most interesting terrain under clear or coloured Alumilite. I would also like to use the smaller pieces inside for jewelry and small boxes BUT i have a great deal of difficulty cutting into these special pieces . . . . .

[Jeffrey J Smith]

i have a great deal of difficulty cutting into these special pieces . . . . .

I, too have trouble digging into these things at times - I just remember my mentor telling me, early on, “just always keep in mind that, unlike many things in life, it does indeed grow on trees”.

[Peter Blair]

LOL Stephen!!

I, too have trouble digging into these things at times - I just remember my mentor telling me, early on, “just always keep in mind that, unlike many things in life, it does indeed grow on trees”.

[Frederick Skelly]

Peter, what does "deadly spikes" mean? I'm ignorant on burls. Is it just a figure of speech or is there really a hazard there? (Sorry to be so dumb. Just trying to learn something new.)

Thanks,
Fred

[Peter Blair]

Fred, deadly may be a little of an exaggeration but the 'spikes' can quite easily stick into a finger.
Here are a few photos but it was hard to get anything that provides a good photo of the 'spikes'.
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Peter, what does "deadly spikes" mean? I'm ignorant on burls. Is it just a figure of speech or is there really a hazard there? (Sorry to be so dumb. Just trying to learn something new.)

Thanks,
Fred

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks Peter! That makes sense.