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Thread: Improving Miter Saw Dust Collection

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2007

    Improving Miter Saw Dust Collection

    Another quick shop improvement: I use the Rousea miter saw dust hood. It works, but a fair amount of fine dust escaped from the front. I know I could add some doors or baffles to improve it, but since I sometimes take it to a job site I value the ease of removal and transport of it.

    After upgrading to a cyclone dust collector, it occurred to me that the 4" port on the hood (and the fairly long run of 4" hose to it) was probably not ideal. Not only that, the increased air flow from the big cyclone tended to suck in the loose fabric of the hood near the port, blocking off part of the port.

    So I picked up a 6" HVAC starting flange, cut out the 4" port, and installed the 6" flange, using a piece of 1/4" MDF as a big washer so I could sandwich the hood fabric between the flange and the mdf. The mdf also keeps the cloth far enough from the port that it doesn't get sucked in. Win-win.

    The result works much better, and while some dust still escapes out the front, it's a lot less than with the original setup. When you are using the saw, you can actually feel a good breeze flowing past into the port. See pics.




  2. #2
    Looks like a good start. You might find you get even better performance if you build something to futher block it off on the sides and make the fence taller.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Modesto, CA, USA
    reminds me of sandblasting the table for my radial arm saw. I put it inside a small dome tent and reached in through the door. Contained most of the abrasive for re use and some dust control. I got it cheap with no poles at a yard sale. I tied it to some tree branches to hold it up a bit.
    Bill D.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Wenatchee, WA
    Paul, excellent idea!

    I have a FastCap ChopShop hood - much the same idea as the Rousseau, but with flaps that hang down to enclose the containment area a bit more during 90 degree cuts.

    I'd contemplated doing something like what you described - attaching a fitting to let my roll-around DC connect to the lower area of the bag in the bottom/back, but figured the canopy would just get sucked into it. That donut you have for clearance is a genius idea!



  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    I thought I had a really good design for a SCMS dust collection box. Actually, it is a Really good one for me. I can use it in a finished house, and not even any fine dust gets on anything. Normally, I'm the only one that makes a cut with it.

    Then I had a friend "help" me last weekend. I was doing something else, and noticed that there was sawdust all around the saw, on the floor, and on top of the dust box. I asked him to make a cut, so I could see what was going on. He pulled the saw all the way out, then lowered it, and pushed into the cut that locked up the blade in the board.

    I grew up using a RAS, and have never thought about operating one that way, even though I do understand that's the "recommended" way to use one. I always lower the saw into the piece, and then pull cut. The blade in the kerf directs the sawdust back into the little catcher, and into the back of the box.

    Now, I understand that pushing is the recommended way. I'm sure it's because the recommenders have to cover their asses against uncoordinated, and stupid users who might injure themselves.

    I'll continue to do it my way, and catch all the dust. I've never locked up the blade, or clamped anything down to try to prevent it from locking up on a push cut. To me, pushing just seems wrong, and even scares me from the extra chances of the blade locking up.

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