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Thread: How to production sand Pine faster ?

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
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    Princeton, NJ
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    I will second Mark's experience, I was at Chris Hall's shop a few weeks ago. He took a board, told me he didn't even bother looking at grain direction and sent it through the surfacer. It produces a perfect finish, like a piece of glass, in 2 seconds. You could inspect the shaving it was free of defects which says the surface is free of defects. A shaving with holes will denote tearout or other defect in the surface.

    I do the same with hand planes, but of course it takes longer than what a super surfacer can do. Both require an in-depth understanding of the chip breaker to accomplish the goal of a tear out free glassy surface.

    Most of the boards I plane are very very easy to plane, two strokes and I have a finished board. Boards with interlock can be a slightly more tedious a process but I plane them as well. Where this kind of thing really comes in handy is when you're working on something wider than the widest wide belt. I took on a project last year that other shops in my area turned down because it was too wide for their equipment. I produced it in a reasonable amount of time and produced a high quality result that was perfectly flat across the 54" wide surface.

    I also produce table tops that are much wider than my equipment, its easy to prep them carefully join together then hand plane for a final finish. Must better and faster than sanding to that size or hauling a 300lb slab out of my shop into someone else shop to flatten, then risk damaging it on the return to my shop.

    For some table tops I will sand with a DA after hand planing for anything that is going to have a heavy modern finish on it (as opposed to a light varnish). This helps me avoid seeing the minor scallops from a planed surface appearing in the finished result, for some reason modern finishes show that.
    Last edited by Brian Holcombe; 07-25-2019 at 1:15 PM.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
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    Inkerman, Ontario, Canada
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    1,403
    Thanks for reminding me Brian; I forgot to mention that the new double machines have two blades in the top and two blades in the bottom, so you can do the "rough" and finish cuts in one pass.

    Supersurfacers of course have limitations like all machines, but for what they are suited for they do an exceptional job. Widebelt sanders take a lot of horsepower, a lot of electrical supply, large dust collectors, sanding belts. and they make a lot of dust and noise, and give many problems with consistently providing a good finish. Supersurfacers leave a brilliant, crystal clear, glass smooth, flat surface with all of the cells clean and open. The machines don't make any dust, therefore don't require dust collectors and are clean and quiet, and don't require a large electrical supply as they only use standard size shop motors. So for the right application they are worth consideration.

    What's not to like?

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Okotoks AB
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    I could watch video of those super surfacers in action all day long. That and the Japanese woodworkers with the super wide planes and see through ribbons coming off them.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Phoenix AZ Area
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    I attended the AWFS show last week in Vegas. Lots of machines that look like a drum sander but with nylon brushes. The bristles are impregnated with abrasive. Fairly wide range of grits. From the demos they look ideal for what you want to do. I think after a couple of passes the edges would be broken enough too.

    I have a hand held Makita I used with a stainless steel brush to distress wood. It came with a Nylon brush like 80 grit. I think that may be took coarse for your needs. This weekend I'll test it on some construction lumber for you.
    https://www.amazon.com/Makita-9741-W.../dp/B000I6QVTA

    Edit, I see they make a 100 grit and 240 grit nylon brushes for it too.
    https://www.amazon.com/Makita-794383...52&s=hi&sr=1-9
    Last edited by Joe Jensen; 07-26-2019 at 11:36 AM.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    TX / LA border.. Toledo Bend
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    Joe - Thank you... yes, I have seen the abrasive rotary brushes machines.

    Very spendy up w wide belts.

    I will say I am looking into the large flap sander brush backed head (s) and making a basic manual feed dedicated little one myself.

    There's a handful of mfgrs w like 4" w x 10" dia heads at around $200each, so $400 gives me 8" to easily do my 5 1/2" w boards.

    Yes, they will soften the edges and would be perfect... assuming decent abrasive life w/o loading.

    Marc
    I'm pretty new here, not as as experienced as most. Please don't hesitate to correct me

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    New York City
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    176
    Personally, when I’m making a more rustic project, I run the boards through my Helical Head planet with a very light pass, then go straight to 180 grit. Spray on some Lacquer or Wipe I’m Poly and it looks quite good. I think a Helical Head Planer will get you where you need to be much Faster.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    TX / LA border.. Toledo Bend
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    Will a current model Dewalt planer w standard head slow down enough to almost eliminate planer ripple ?

    Marc
    I'm pretty new here, not as as experienced as most. Please don't hesitate to correct me

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    TX / LA border.. Toledo Bend
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    Joe - I am interested what the Makita will do using the stainless brush... interesting if it would efficiently remove mill ripple and grading stamp.

    The fact that it will give 3D grain may be in fact acceptable for my needs.

    Just wonder if it would leave a "hairy" surface.

    I will "contribute" shortly to be able to view images.

    Gonna go check Youtube for the Mak and PC machine abilities.

    IIRC the Makita is better than the PC.

    Marc
    I'm pretty new here, not as as experienced as most. Please don't hesitate to correct me

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