Folding Table - Which One?

[Jim Becker]

Greg, if the holes bored in the top were in the same 96mm grid centers as the Festool MFT and 20mm in diameter, it would be reasonable to be able to use a "standard" track saw setup for miter cutting. However, you'd want that top to be intended to be sacrificial for obvious reasons...it will get chewed up if you cut on it just like a "real" MFT top does over time.

[Greg Parrish]

So the Festool dog holes are 96mm center to center along both axis? Just making sure I follow. Don’t want to chew up my top but could make an MDF overlay to use with tracksaw.

I know the dog holes on the armor are 3/4” rather than 20mm, but you could easily bore them out slightly to 20mm with an appropriate bit I would think.

Greg, if the holes bored in the top were in the same 96mm grid centers as the Festool MFT and 20mm in diameter, it would be reasonable to be able to use a "standard" track saw setup for miter cutting. However, you'd want that top to be intended to be sacrificial for obvious reasons...it will get chewed up if you cut on it just like a "real" MFT top does over time.

[Jim Becker]

Theoretically, you could bore out the holes slightly to 20mm, but it would be "amazing" if you were able to do that and keep them as accurate as you would want for absolute square references. It would be better to replace the top in that respect with one that has the original bores in the "correct" grid with 20mm holes if you want to go that route, However, if the .75" holes are on a regular and accurate grid, no matter what that grid is, they are already usable for squaring accuracy.

[Greg Parrish]

Good point. I’ll need to check them for square as they should be but as mentioned this is a clamping table rather than a tracksaw miter table so who knows. One thought is that Kreg uses 3/4” dogs for their table so if spacing were the same I might be able to use their parts. Regardless, if it becomes a huge deal I can always add a folding Festool MFT down the road as it would take minimal space when folded and stored. Thanks.

Theoretically, you could bore out the holes slightly to 20mm, but it would be "amazing" if you were able to do that and keep them as accurate as you would want for absolute square references. It would be better to replace the top in that respect with one that has the original bores in the "correct" grid with 20mm holes if you want to go that route, However, if the .75" holes are on a regular and accurate grid, no matter what that grid is, they are already usable for squaring accuracy.

[ChrisA Edwards]

Good point. I’ll need to check them for square as they should be but as mentioned this is a clamping table rather than a tracksaw miter table so who knows. One thought is that Kreg uses 3/4” dogs for their table so if spacing were the same I might be able to use their parts. Regardless, if it becomes a huge deal I can always add a folding Festool MFT down the road as it would take minimal space when folded and stored. Thanks.

I have a Festool MFT, but there are times I would like a larger top similar to the Festool MFT.

Reading this thread, I finally broke down and bought the UJK Technology Part Guide System. This jig basically allows you to build any size bench dog table top.


https://tsoproducts.com/workholding-...-guide-system/

[Greg Parrish]

Thanks Chris. Looks like a good way to go to create my own top that can be put right on top of my Armor bench as needed. Found this guide link on their site showing what I’m thinking. https://knowledge.axminster.co.uk/ho...-table-part-3/

still trying to decipher her the difference between the link you provided and their MKII model. https://tsoproducts.com/accessories/...ystem-mark-ii/

I have a Festool MFT, but there are times I would like a larger top similar to the Festool MFT.

Reading this thread, I finally broke down and bought the UJK Technology Part Guide System. This jig basically allows you to build any size bench dog table top.


https://tsoproducts.com/workholding-...-guide-system/

[Rick Potter]

Hi Greg,

I have the same table, and found that some 3/4" dogs fit, others are a bit tight. The basic plastic dogs they sell at Rockler fit well. I believe Armor sells their own.

I haven't done it yet but it seems that two dogs across the top to hold the work, two along the length to hold the track, and you can square up and cut most sizes of cabinetry.

My thought was to use the dogs to hold the track, then route a half inch deep, 3/4" wide dado into the table. Insert a replaceable sacrificial piece in the slot, and you would be good to go.

If this method has problems, perhaps others can enlighten me before I make a big mistake.

For me, the easiest way to clamp things on the bench is to use the Kreg 'Bench Clamp Base'. It uses a 1/2" bolt through the holes, with a big door handle sized nut on the bottom of the bench. You can use it in any hole a 1/2" bolt will go through. I have several lengths of bolts for various places. The Kreg bench clamp fits it and swivels 360.

[Jim Becker]

My thought was to use the dogs to hold the track, then route a half inch deep, 3/4" wide dado into the table. Insert a replaceable sacrificial piece in the slot, and you would be good to go.

Making the recess and insert as a sliding dovetail would make things easier to replace and eliminate any mechanical hold-down anywhere near where a blade would cut. Of course, this is really only practical for 90º cuts or maybe a dedicated angle, such as 45º since putting in multiple replaceable strips would be, um...a potential nightmare.

[Greg Parrish]

I don’t want to cut my top. I plan to use this as a catch all bench for everything from my grinder, my tormek, clamping, sanding, assembly, etc. I do like the idea of the thing Chris posted that would let me create an MFT style top box that I can place on top of the Armor bench when I want to use the tracksaw. In theory you should be able to use the Festool track miter with that setup.

[Mike Kreinhop]

still trying to decipher her the difference between the link you provided and their MKII model. https://tsoproducts.com/accessories/...ystem-mark-ii/

The beginning of this video explains the difference between the original and MKII.

[ChrisA Edwards]

I initially ordered the original Parf system, then came across the Mark II version early this afternoon, so I contacted TSO Products and was able to cancel my original order and get the Mark II version.

[Greg Parrish]

Thanks for the video Mike. I’ve got the MKII model bookmarked to order when I get ready. Looks like the best option for me. Thanks again.

[ChrisA Edwards]

Just a follow up, I got the Parf Bench Dog Guide System Mark 2, bought a sheet of 4' x 8' MDF.

Cut it down to size 40" x 76" to just overlap my work bench and used the Parf system to drill the Bench Dog holes.

I did guide rail holes at 32mm offset to the main matrix of 96mm holes, along the outside of the two long sides, to be used for the Festool Guide rail for cross cutting. This allows use of the guide rail where the saw line will not cut through a row of dog holes. I can now support and cross cut about 40".

Between the 96mm holes, I drilled holes at 48mm, i.e. the center of each 96mnm square.

My main goal was to create a cutting platform where I can use the Festool Track Saw and Rail that offers a little more capacity for cross cutting panels than what the Festool MFT allows.

I'm not sure I need holes in the last third of the sheet, but could add them later if necessary.