The only part you can align is the 'end tube', it has it's own bracket/support just before the beam passes thru the hole in whatever's holding up the scanhead. Chances are just clamping the new tube in place will be fine...

That said-- I noticed shortly after I got my Triumph that I was losing power at the lower extremes of the work area. Paper shims helped with that!

There is a way to see where your beam is hitting the mirrors, but it requires adjusting the red light so it's 'static' output matches the beam's output. This isn't the same as aligning the red light in the software, which changes the red light's dynamic output, which is much easier to do. The software adjustment allows you to match the red light output, DURING 'RED LASE POINTING' ONLY to exactly match the beam's engraved output, so that what you see is exactly what you get when redlighting, and the mirrors do the adjusting. Depending on your machine's alignment, you may or may not have noticed when engraving the red light path doesn't align with beam path; LED alignment goes away while engraving... All 3 of my machines are off a little, my Triumph is off a ton, and I still need to fix that, but for 99% of the work, it doesn't matter. The reason my Triumph is so far off is because I adjusted the red light to run dead-center on the mirrors, but jobs got in the way and haven't gotten the laser tube lined up to match yet.

Here's the business end of the laser and LED within my Triumph 'portable'
-you can see the tube end clamped in place to a support. In front of the tube end is the LED setup--
tube n led.jpg
--to adjust the LED you loosen the corner hold-down screws, then move up or down the 4 edge adjustment screws.
Before adjusting, you need to go into the red light pointer options in EZcad and zero out any X and Y offsets.
DON'T change any ratio offsets, because the laser's output has had it's ratio's changed and the LED ratio's are *usually* changed to match.
All we want to adjust is X and Y position of the laser and LED as they hit the mirrors...

After some adjusting, I got the LED's really close--
the left mirror's angle makes it hard to get a photo of, but you can see it's very close to center from left to right:
shortmirror.jpg

during a long exposure, you can see the full beam path on the right mirror,
and the 'spot' on the left mirror--very well centered both directions:
longmirror.jpg

So this means that the LED at least is in near perfect position... After this, the trick is to align the fiber beam to match the LED beam, which will require shimming the tube's radial bracket and/or the support itself. This is what I haven't done yet, but I should! (Near) perfect beam-to-mirrors alignment will insure the beam will always hit mirror, and assuming the lens and mirror alignment is good (how to know that--??) the beam paths should be perfectly vertical when in home position, and should not hit any 'out of bounds' areas within the working area the lens; equal power all around...