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Thread: An alternate approach to controlling tear-out.

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  1. #1
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    An alternate approach to controlling tear-out.


  2. #2
    Stewie, teach me please because I missed something. Do you think his approach worked so well because he back bevelled the cutting iron, or because he rasped the surface before planing, or both?

    Thank you.
    Fred
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."

    “If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”

  3. #3
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    Fred; its the use of a back bevel to increase the effective approach angle of the cutting edge (above that being governed by the blades bed).

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Stewie Simpson View Post
    Fred; its the use of a back bevel to increase the effective approach angle of the cutting edge (above that being governed by the blades bed).
    Thanks Stewie!
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."

    “If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”

  5. #5
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    its the use of a back bevel to increase the effective approach angle of the cutting edge (above that being governed by the blades bed).
    Fred; its an alternate approach I am quite familiar with.











    Last edited by Stewie Simpson; 07-03-2019 at 10:00 PM.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frederick Skelly View Post
    Stewie, teach me please because I missed something. Do you think his approach worked so well because he back bevelled the cutting iron, or because he rasped the surface before planing, or both?

    Thank you.
    Fred
    using a toothed blade or veneer glue prep blade will do the same thing...reduce tear out on figured wood.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Les Groeller View Post
    using a toothed blade or veneer glue prep blade will do the same thing...reduce tear out on figured wood.
    Lee; there are a number of different approaches available to control tear-out;

    vs
    the 1 only approach being offered by the close set cap iron enthusiasts.





    Last edited by Stewie Simpson; 07-03-2019 at 10:18 PM.

  8. #8
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    Stevie, are the last two pictures of a (your?) bench top dressed with a toothed blade? The shavings look similar to those created when those tools are used.

  9. #9
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    Lee; yes its my work bench and toothing plane.

  10. #10
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    Backbevel achieved with David Charlesworth's "ruler trick"?

  11. #11
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    Worth having a spare blade or two to do that in Australia with all those wonderful hardwoods you get.
    Lovely wooden plane collection Stewie and a nice flat bench to use them on!
    ​You can do a lot with very little! You can do a little more with a lot!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Matthews View Post
    Backbevel achieved with David Charlesworth's "ruler trick"?
    Yes, exactly!

  13. #13
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    Originally Posted by Jim Matthews
    Backbevel achieved with David Charlesworth's "ruler trick"?
    Quote Originally Posted by Pat Barry View Post
    Yes, exactly!
    Actually ... no.

    The Ruler Trick (of David Charlesworth) creates a 1/3 degree back bevel. For a high cutting angle, say on a 45 degree frog, a back bevel of 15 degrees is required.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  14. #14
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    Downside to a back bevel is that it makes a very blunt cutting edge. If my normal edge is 30 degrees, a back beveled edge is 40 degrees easily.

    Ive used one on rabbet planes in cranky wood, but not for anything with a double iron.

    The double iron is very effective and certainly worth spending the time needed to make use of it.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  15. #15
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    Brian, your comments remind me that a 15-degree back bevel is extremely useful when using a common angle plough plane for grooves and beads in interlocked grain. Ideally, one would not use a plough plane in such wood, but it may be unavoidable. Narrow blades will not cause any extra difficulty in pushing the plane.

    The other issue is whether a high cutting angle on a smoother creates a poor surface. I recognise that a low cutting angle will leave the better finish, but I would seriously doubt that 98% of woodworkers could tell the difference on planed hardwood even without a finish.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

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