Fixing an old table...need some input

[James Jayko]

So I recently bought a cottage that was built in 1909, along with most of the furniture built in the same period.

At some point, some owner lengthened the table to be about 3' x 10'. Its all painted, and I assume it is pine. Whoever did this clearly just slapped it together...the original section is solid, painted wood, while the addition is plywood that has been attached via silicone, so the table can really only be covered with a table cloth.

I was thinking of making a new top in two roughly 5' sections and connecting them with Domino Connectors so it could be moved more easily if necessary. The shape is a rectangle with the corners clipped off at 45 degrees, so the shape seems like it would make breadboard ends not really work. I COULD just keep it rectangular, but that doesn't really stick with the original design. So I guess my question is...do any of you lovely people have any ideas as to particular materials or construction style that would minimize the likelihood of warping of the top? This will be painted, so I'd rather not pay a fortune for quartersawn lumber, but I could do that if it was the only real solution. Edge banding plywood just seems way too hack here.

I'd love any ideas you have.

[Thomas McCurnin]

This is really a big old table. I think I would not over-think this and use the same original design--Pine, Fir, or Redwood, but I would make absolutely sure that the wood is 100% kiln dried. I've seen so-called kiln dried Fir which is really not very dry. I mention Red Wood because my experience with Red Wood is that is always kiln dried, and extremely light and stable. I'd get some 2x6s square off the edges and just attach them to the table via screws from underneath. Attach them together via tongue and groove.

[Patrick Varley]

So I recently bought a cottage that was built in 1909, along with most of the furniture built in the same period.

At some point, some owner lengthened the table to be about 3' x 10'. Its all painted, and I assume it is pine. Whoever did this clearly just slapped it together...the original section is solid, painted wood, while the addition is plywood that has been attached via silicone, so the table can really only be covered with a table cloth.

I was thinking of making a new top in two roughly 5' sections and connecting them with Domino Connectors so it could be moved more easily if necessary. The shape is a rectangle with the corners clipped off at 45 degrees, so the shape seems like it would make breadboard ends not really work. I COULD just keep it rectangular, but that doesn't really stick with the original design. So I guess my question is...do any of you lovely people have any ideas as to particular materials or construction style that would minimize the likelihood of warping of the top? This will be painted, so I'd rather not pay a fortune for quartersawn lumber, but I could do that if it was the only real solution. Edge banding plywood just seems way too hack here.

I'd love any ideas you have.

I'd think about going with something like this resawn veneer top with a solid wood frame. And while the idea of shop-made thick veneer is nice, I don't see why using plywood (correctly) would be hack. If the primary factor is minimizing wood movement and price is a consideration, I think this is a reason to consider using something other than a solid wood top. That being said, you can make it look quite nice, and I don't think I would be consider using sheets of plywood from the BORG. One of the places I buy from has quite a few options that would fit the look you're going for (link). Not sure where you're located, but I suspect you could find a distributor near you that can give you some options. Alternatively you could look around online for some thick veneer to purchase instead of resawing your own and use the same technique.As in the article, I'd likely use a contrasting species for the edging for visual appeal.

EDIT: I missed where you said it was going to be painted. In that case I'd be hard pressed to spend the time/money on a solid wood top. I'd still go with the solid wood edged plywood top, but since it will be painted no need to go crazy on the ply or wood frame. Good quality baltic birch ply and poplar for the frame are all you need.

[Jim Becker]

If you want to retain the rustic feel while replacing the top, using reclaimed boards of appropriate full length would be my choice or at least new wood of a species appropriate for the look you want to achieve. And yes, I'd do this even if it were going to be painted. But that's subjective...

[Randy Heinemann]

As suggested already, if you can find reclaimed boards of the right size, gluing them together to the right width should work. Reclaimed wood should be dried sufficiently and probably won't move that much between seasons. Otherwise, any decent wood (since you're painting it) which is kiln dried completely should work.

When attaching the top to the base, though, I'd attach in a way that does allow some wood movement across the grain; like oval holes so the screw heads have room to move or table clips which are installed in a recess in the top. What you use depends on how the top is constructed and attached to the legs.

[Clint Baxter]

If this top is going to be painted, the I’d use sheets of MDO and edge band that. The MDO has that perfectly flat surface of MDF for painting, and the plywood core to give you any necessary strength. You could always glue sheets together as well, if you want/need the top to be thicker.

Clint

[Jamie Buxton]

James, a pic would be very good.