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Thread: Cheap but decent circ saw for dedicated track saw?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
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    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
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    I used one of these guides for thirty-five years, at least, before I ever heard the name "track saw". A factory edge of something like plywood, or MDF is glued to the 1/4" base, and then the saw trims it to fit exactly. It cuts as accurately as any high dollar one. The main advantage of the dedicated ones is better dust collection.

    Even when we're installing plywood subfloor, or sheathing, it's easier to use this guide than not to, and the edges come out perfectly straight. We usually cut a stack of three at the time.

    This cut was 20' long, and needed to fit perfectly for the piece of $27 bd.ft. clear Heart Pine flooring fitting against it.

    I keep a short one for trimming door bottoms also.

    With the 347, and 743 circular saws, you can go either direction you need to.

    I have never put money in a dedicated tracksaw because dust collection doesn't matter where I use one. If I needed one in a finished house, that would be a different story.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #17
    In my homeowner experience:

    - Any circular saw and home-made track will break down ply into manageable sections. But...

    - The cord is a pain to manage, so don't rule out battery operated circular saws. My Makita cordless lasts a long while. It's a little heavy, but the convenience of being able to break down sheets anywhere is huge for me.
    - Having to post-process every panel because your system isn't precise becomes a pain. Eventually, a quality track that minimizes tear out and gives you a closer-to-finished edge becomes a need-to-have (not a nice-to-have).
    - I find that since I've upgraded my circular saw, I use it more and more instead of my table saw.

    I guess I'm saying make sure you won't want to upgrade in a year.

  3. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Klosky View Post
    I have seen entry level saws (B&D $45 on sale at Hugh M Woods) with very little use that had in excess of 1/16" of side to side slop in the blade. So no, what I had stated is not so ridiculous. I am happy that you were able to get acceptable cuts with what you had. However that is not always the case with entry level tools.
    I'm sure I've used dozens of different circular saws over the years. I must say, I've had the luck to never have seen anything near that bad.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Alberta
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    2,162
    I have about seven Dewalt 368 saws. you could probably find one in a pawnshop for 40 bucks or so. Great saws.

  5. #20
    If you want a track saw, buy a track saw. If you don't have the money yet, save for it.

  6. #21
    In case you might ever need the feature, consider that a dedicated track saw will have the ability to plunge cut (safely) in a way that a standard circular saw will not.

  7. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Edwin Santos View Post
    In case you might ever need the feature, consider that a dedicated track saw will have the ability to plunge cut (safely) in a way that a standard circular saw will not.

    I'd also strongly consider getting a GOOD saw for this. One that has a tight arbor and an accurate 90º setting. There may be times when you want to make an accurate cut with this system, nt just roughing it. for example, if you need to cut sheets good into 24" strips.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Doylestown, PA
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    7,576
    It ain't cheap and you can't buy one new from retail sources but the Porter Cable 314 trim saw works really well with a shop made guide like Tom shows. The base is quite a bit longer than it is wide and tracks along the guide without any tendency to go cockeyed. Underpowered for commercial use but it works really well. I don't know if such a form factor is available new or not, I'm not aware of it.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
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    The other side of that jig in the picture fits a 314. It works great for a clean cut on one sheet of plywood. I don't think they've been made in years, but it's a nice little saw for some things.

    You can indeed plunge cut with a regular circular saw. The cut in that picture was a plunge cut. It was also 20' long, and a five degree angle. Both left, and right bladed saws were used because each end met a wall. The cut was angled so the last piece of flooring could be held in place with friction, and pressure while the adhesive set. We didnt' want any fasteners exposed on the surface. There were five, or six such cuts in that job of inlaying a new top 3/4" layer on a few hundred feet of 1828 Heart Pine flooring.

    The only advantage to a commercial track saw is dust collection.

  10. #25
    Advantages of a real track saw

    You can plunge at any angle and it will be at that angle without much error.
    The aluminum track is going to be straight, and it will stay straight.
    The rubber edge acts as a line guide and a splinter guard.
    The track has special clamps that stay out of the way of the cut.
    Tracks can be easily joined together to make longer cuts.
    When you do an angle cut on a track saw the splinter guard won't get damaged because the saw pivots so it stays in reference to the edge.
    The track keeps the saw on the track because of the groove, it can't slip.
    The track has rubber on the bottom for quick cuts without a clamp.
    The track has a slippery surface so the saw always glides smoothly and predictably.
    The track has adapters for stops that can easily be put on and taken off.
    The saw itself is a precision instrument compared to a circular saw.
    Plunging is built into the saw, no need to lift it off the track.

    And it has good dust control if you use a vacuum.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Deep South
    Posts
    3,970
    I use a track saw to cut pieces to final dimensions. I don't want to waste time cutting to "almost" dimensions and then recutting. Real track saws are built better than cheap circular saws and will produce an edge that is suitable for furniture or cabinet making. I was never able to get those results with a circular saw and home made saw guide. I used a fairly expensive Dewalt circular saw.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jacob Reverb View Post
    Idea is simply to break plywood into manageable-size pieces – final dimensioning on table saw and/or jointer – so I can't see taking a second mortgage to afford it.
    again. Problem solved.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NE Ohio
    Posts
    7,030
    I use a track saw to cut pieces to final dimensions.
    Here- let me add the rest to that - - I use a track saw to cut pieces to final dimensions in the parking lot of where I buy the sheet goods. Not only do I have ready made pieces, I also have a bazillion time easier job of transporting the sheet goods home....

    Track saw big bucks? Too expensive? Luxury that can't be afforded? HA!
    Now, instead of having to buy a truck or van - and the expense of putting gas into it - I can drive an econo-box instead.

    That """expensive"" track saw saves me major bucks...
    "Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon

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