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Thread: First class and planes

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by lowell holmes View Post
    I think you need at least one draw knife for rough shaping.

    https://www.woodcraft.com/search?utf...3-f27dbc56136d
    Me thinks you meant to post this in a different thread.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie Derudder View Post
    Picked up a few , found a couple of older ones for about $40 a 3 and 6, picked up a 5/7 for more. Have some projects to refurb these.

    Anyone know if taking a 2x72 belts/ scrotchbrite belt to these is a good decision. It should give it a nice satin look.. but the patina will be gone. Will this make these instant rust ?

    (I live in phoenix)
    Jamie,

    To help with your question it would be helpful to have images.

    If the planes are not terribly rusted, it might be fine to leave them as is. The instant rusting or 'flash' rusting happens often after a chemical clean or drying in an oven.

    Of course, if you want your planes to look like new, then finding a way to shine them up is another story.

    Very few of my many planes have been treated to abrasive cosmetics unless the sole needs to be worked. At one time my enthusiasm for sole lapping was a bit stronger. Now it is only done to remove rust or if there are problems which can be traced to a non-flat sole.

    The Neanderthal wisdom/FAQs has a lot of information from various sources you may find helpful and informative:

    https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?103805

    Here is an old post of mine:

    https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?114373

    jtk
    Last edited by Jim Koepke; 07-06-2019 at 3:34 PM. Reason: changed heating in an oven to drying in an oven
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  3. #18
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    Not really, they are both part of the same tool bench. At least they are in my shop.

  4. #19
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    I have these irons and breakers in my Bedrock Planes.
    A 604, 605, and 607.

    http://hocktools.com/products/bl.html

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by lowell holmes View Post
    I have these irons and breakers in my Bedrock Planes.
    A 604, 605, and 607.

    http://hocktools.com/products/bl.html
    Same here only in Stanley/Bailey planes. Most of my planes are equiped with Stanley blades from various years. The Hock blades are very good blades. The Stanley blades if not pitted and turned to junk can hold their own.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  6. #21
    E6CA8771-83B1-4D0B-84FE-49660432A124.jpgD41A3761-961D-47EB-B6A9-F4B842073413.jpg

    I started with 3 planes .. about average cost of $40

    i went with a 603, 606 and found this even rustier and pitted bedrock 605 than above.

    i went with white vinegar to baking soda, then used stripper for the jappaning.
    i went with a 2x72 on a glass back flat platen with ceramic 120/400 belts to a scotch brite belt.

    so about half way there. Awaiting new jappaning to arrive and got to do small parts tonight.

    Thinking I may go fully in and just replace the blades with Lee valley

  7. #22
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    Thinking I may go fully in and just replace the blades with Lee valley
    You will save yourself some effort and possible troubles by getting chip breakers with the new blades.

    It sounds like you are off to a good start. Pictures of your progress are always enjoyed by others. Especially pictures of your finished planes.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  8. #23
    I ended up using old belts yesterday in the above, but this morning felt I had to many machining marks.

    so did one more grinding , but 1/10 of the time with the nice belts in 120/400 and switched from fine to medium for scotch brite. Basically got all the scratches going the same way.

    That will be the the end of it as grinding can be addictive and it will never be perfect.

    The last was the bedford it’s pitting was really bad.. 603,606 and 605.

    before new belts.

    968401AB-71C2-4843-B131-872FB3385D77.jpgF8FA6049-B2E4-44DC-8DC8-C214A7E6FCDE.jpgA74FF190-B83A-4FC1-B7C5-A8753146A7DB.jpg35CFBC12-9310-4BA2-8D0D-9A556EE548A6.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Jamie Derudder; 07-15-2019 at 8:19 PM.

  9. #24
    After in comparison to my lee valley, some character marks but thatís okay. I tried to remove the least amount of material as possible.

    0BEE2EA9-6899-4D85-9BF1-14B0DA017DFD.jpg

  10. #25
    Nothing wrong with character marks. Scratches, dings, and patina give your planes more street cred.

    I always look suspiciously at woodworkers whose tools always look like the pictures in the catalog, almost like they have never been used. . . . .

  11. #26
    So my japanning landed from Pontytool, they were out so I had to do the waiting game started tonight !

    Does anyone know for a fact if itís 4 layers. I read that ... somewhere and couldnít find it

  12. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Koepke View Post
    Same here only in Stanley/Bailey planes. Most of my planes are equiped with Stanley blades from various years. The Hock blades are very good blades. The Stanley blades if not pitted and turned to junk can hold their own.

    jtk
    I agree, my preference is the Stanley OEM cutter if saveable. If not, if forget who makes them, a Japanese replacement iron which is also thin. Then third if neither of the other two options work a thicker O1 Hock or Veritas blade.

    ken

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