Help drying hollow forms

[robert baccus]

Endseal, endseal and time--do it the easy reliable way.

[Peter Blair]

I have one more thing to add to this thread. I started out boiling and bagging or just bagging. I have shelves of prepared dry objects to return to the lathe but in the years that went by as I waited for the pieces to dry my skill level and design ideas changed. I now have lots (about 2 to 300) pieces that will likely wind up in the burn pile when I 'hop the twig' because I have no will to finish these pieces. Try not to fall into the trap that I managed to when I was just making things.

[Thomas Wilson80]

I have one more thing to add to this thread. I started out boiling and bagging or just bagging. I have shelves of prepared dry objects to return to the lathe but in the years that went by as I waited for the pieces to dry my skill level and design ideas changed. I now have lots (about 2 to 300) pieces that will likely wind up in the burn pile when I 'hop the twig' because I have no will to finish these pieces. Try not to fall into the trap that I managed to when I was just making things.

Ha - interesting problem to have Peter! I’m still struggling as a beginner to find enough time to get out 3-4x/month so I’m years away from accumulating that much. I’m sort of the opposite where I’m spending a lot of time sanding/finishing pieces that probably should be burned.

thanks everyone for the tips. I’m learning a lot, now just need to put into practice.

tom

[Ken Glass]

Steve,
That's been my system for many years. I do weigh the piece after rough turning to 10%, and weigh it every week until it stops losing weight for four days in a row. I wrap it in brown paper without any holes or openings. My shop is dry. Then I turn it to a finish thickness and then apply a final finish. I rarely have cracks develop, including Cherry. I usually only turn green wood.