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Thread: Painting an OAK red stained/lacquered end table White.. Proper Sealer Suggestions?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Madison WI area
    Posts
    129

    Painting an OAK red stained/lacquered end table White.. Proper Sealer Suggestions?

    I have an end table that is made out of Oak and it is stained or lacquered with a red stain (similar to what you see on Cherry cabinets) The end goal is to paint it white. Would 1 coat of Bin Shellac prevent bleed through? Two coats? Is there a different "sealer/primer" i should be looking at ( Kilz original?) so I have a white table and not Pink when I am done?

    My top coat will most likely be BM Advance, or I do have some GF Finishes Snow white in my inventory as well.

    Thanks
    Ridgid R4513 jobsite saw, Ridgid R4512 Table saw, Ridgid JP601 jointer/planer,
    Jet DC-1100VX-CK Dust collector, Bosch 1617 EVSPK router, Bosch RA1181 router table, Rikon 10-326 Band saw
    Dewalt 735 planer, Fuji Q5Platinum HVLP,

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    48,799
    Break the gloss, use a good primer (compatible with what you choose for the next step) and then paint with the product of your choice. When I hear "bleed through", I immediately think of knots in pine or a poorly applied stain that wasn't top coated with clear. I doubt you'll have that issue. Rather, you need to cover the color. A couple coats of a good primer and then quality finish should do the job nicely. Don't overthink it.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    5,903
    I just finished spraying a cabinet that had been finished with WB varnish 22 years ago. I sanded the surfaces I could get to with my ROS with 150 grit to break the sheen but not to remove the finish; the others I did by hand. I used BIN white pigmented shellac based primer to prime it, tinted with Cal-Tint UCT to get a gray tint and then sprayed two coats of my gray BM Advance. I've used this same combination over several previously finished pieces in the past couple of years and never had a problem.

    John

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Madison WI area
    Posts
    129
    Thanks guys!
    Ridgid R4513 jobsite saw, Ridgid R4512 Table saw, Ridgid JP601 jointer/planer,
    Jet DC-1100VX-CK Dust collector, Bosch 1617 EVSPK router, Bosch RA1181 router table, Rikon 10-326 Band saw
    Dewalt 735 planer, Fuji Q5Platinum HVLP,

  5. #5
    I painted a commercially produced bed frame white-ish a few years back. By the looks of it, it was made out of Rubber wood, stained a light brown, and had a catalyzed or 2k hard clear finish. Based on advise from this forum, I basically did what John describes above. Sanded, primed with BIN white pigmented rattle cans, and brushed on a couple coats of custom colored (near white) Sherwin-Williams ProClassic acrylic-alkyd latex.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Michiana
    Posts
    1,234
    Kilz for the win.
    It's wood dust. Saw dust would suggest a problem.

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