Bandsaw wheel, very difficult to remove

[Mark Gibney]

I removed the wheels on my 20" D&W bandsaw today, the top one with great difficulty.
I used a gear puller. The lower wheel came off fine.
The top wheel was a bear - I would pull on that wrench until I was sure either my shoulder or something would break and then POP! the wheel would advance 1/32" along the shaft.

Here's my question - should I have either the shaft or the wheel "housing" (the center hole of the wheel, I don't know the correct term) machined by a couple of thousands?

I fear it will be difficult to get back on if I don't, and will of course be difficult in the future to remove again if I ever need to.

There is no rust on either the wheel or the shaft, or any other damage that could cause the difficulty in removing the wheel. It's just an extremely tight fit.

thanks, Mark

[Jacob Reverb]

I wonder whether a propane torch judicially applied to the wheel might buy (or rent) you some breathing room...personally, I'd be real hesitant to go machining it.

[Sam Puhalovich]

Mark ... since you were able to advance-it 1/32" by pulling on-it ... check the end of the shaft for any kind of 'bulge'. You are looking at decreasing the size of the shaft by about .0002 in order to gain a 'slip-fit' from where-your-at. You can do that with some 600 fine-grit crocus cloth or even some wet-dry emery paper. Cut a little wider then the shaft is long ... wrap-it half-way around the shaft and do about 30 'strokes'. Repeat that at 90* intervals ... after once-around try the wheel for 'fit'. I'll bet you'll be done!

[Jay Kepley]

You might consider a heat gun. For the less experienced (like me), I suspect using a heat gun is safer for the equipment. Good luck.

[Mark Gibney]

I think I'll try Sam's idea of using 600 grit crocus cloth, then when I am ready to re-mount the wheel I'll heat the wheel and cool the shaft with a can of Dust-off.

I've done the heating (with a heat gun, but I may use a propane torch for this one. Faster) / cooling previously on a different bandsaw and it helps.

Thank you all for your feedback.

[scott lipscomb]

Pretty sure that you want a very tight fit between spindle and wheel. I need to pound the wheels with a heavy oak timber on my 30" bandsaw to seat them. The fit is very tight and that's a good thing. Also, make sure there aren't any set screws...

[David Buchhauser]

Hi Mark,
After sanding with the crocus cloth (and cleaning the bore and the shaft) I would recommend applying a thin film of oil or light grease to the mating parts before reassembly. This may help the parts slide together with less friction, and will also help the next time you need to remove the wheel. Depending on how far you have disassembled the saw, you may be able to use a large c-clamp or other device to effectively press the wheel back onto the shaft.
David

[Rich Aldrich]

I would clean it up with fine emery cloth. Also clean the bore. Just before you assemble it, put the shaft in the freezer for a while to shrink it. Dry ice really works well but a few hours in the freezer should be enough to assemble it. I agree with light weight oil along with the cold.

We used dry ice to assemble a 6 ton rotor on a 7” shaft. It shrunk the shaft 0.015” in 15 minutes and the rotor dropped right on the shaft. You have to be very careful handling dry ice.

[Brian Deakin]

I have a Startrite 401s bandsaw and I had to reinstall the upper wheel after having the bandsaw tire replaced

This is the method I used

I cleaned the shaft with a nylon pad the type used for washing up

Next I identified the diameter or the bolt which secures the wheel I then obtained a bolt of the same size and about 4 inches long
Next I made several wooden washers about 3 inches in diameter (various thicknesses up to about 1 inch)with a hole in the centre larger than the diameter of the 4 inch bolt
To remount the bandsaw wheel I placed the wheel on the shaft
I then placed the wooden washers on the bolt I inserted the bolt into the bandsaw mounting hole and tightened the bolt slowly, this pulled wheel back onto the shaft
(I used both a spanner and a socket with a ratchet to tighten the bolt The ratchet was the fastest way to advance the wheel along the shaft)
I did need to remove and add washers as the wheel advanced along the shaft and into position