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Thread: Kreg bandsaw fence - table slot conflict

  1. #1
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    Kreg bandsaw fence - table slot conflict

    I just got the Kreg Precision bandsaw fence I ordered and realized the fence can not accommodate having a table blade slot being parallel with the fence. All the directions and photos of it show the blade slot being perpendicular to the fence, which I didn’t even consider when I bought it. I called Kreg and they basically said I’d need to remove the fence and rail to change a blade. Seriously?

    Both my bandsaws have the orientation of the blade a lot parallel with the fence.

    I guess I need to make some standoffs to bring the fence rail away from the table to allow the blade to go by. Or send it back but it’ll cost $20 probably to ship it.

    Seems like a major design flaw by Kreg. And they don’t have an adapter kit available. Guy on the phone basically shrugged his shoulders.

  2. #2
    Hi Matt.

    I'm sorry. That's a bummer to have to deal with. I have that fence and l like it a lot. But the blade slot on both my bandsaws runs perpendicular to the fence. Matt, it doesn't seem "fair" to call this a design flaw - the tool works extremely well in the application for which it was designed (as shown in their pictures). Your saw is different and needs a fence designed differently. That's not your fault, or theirs. It's a Ford water pump and you have a Ferrari. I'd send it back.

    Best of luck.
    Fred
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."
    - Sir Edmund Burke

  3. #3
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    When I say design flaw, I mean they should have accounted for saws that the blade slot is parallel to the fence like mine. Wouldn’t you think they’d want to fit as many saws as possible to sell more?

    Providing an adapter kit would be a good idea. Stating it in the product description would be a good idea too.

    I’ll probably end up returning it.

  4. #4
    I have the same issue with my Powermatic 140 (14" saw, 1960 era). I gave up and bought a Carter Mag Fence.

    I did consider mounting the rail on the other side of the table, where there is no blade slot. I have not looked at it to see how well the clamp mechanism might work on that side, but it is something to consider.

    One option might be to cut the side rail so it is open at the blade slot in the table. This would require a minimum of two mounting bolts on each half of the rail and careful alignment of the two halves. It probably also requires drilling and tapping at least one additional mounting hole in the side of the table.

    I like the PM 140 but I have seriously considered replacing it with a bandsaw with the slot going out the front of the table.

    Rick

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Day View Post
    When I say design flaw, I mean they should have accounted for saws that the blade slot is parallel to the fence like mine. Wouldn’t you think they’d want to fit as many saws as possible to sell more?

    Providing an adapter kit would be a good idea. Stating it in the product description would be a good idea too.

    I’ll probably end up returning it.
    Hi Matt,
    Sorry to hear about this. The blade slot orientation is probably something that I would have overlooked as well. As previously suggested - I also would consider doing a slight modification to make it work with your saw. I took a look at the Kreg webpage for this fence. They do provide a compatibility chart that shows which saws it fits without modifications, which saws need to have the mounting rail removed each time you change the blade, etc. Of course, you may have a saw that is not included in their chart. Good luck!
    David

    https://www.kregtool.com/webres/File...biltyChart.pdf

    Kreg Band Saw Compatibility Chart.jpg
    Last edited by David Buchhauser; 06-08-2019 at 7:55 PM.

  6. #6
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    Thanks David. I did see that but it was after I found out the conflict. Both my 14” saw (Heston & Anderson #1) and 24” saw (Centauro 600) aren’t on the list.

  7. #7
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    Matt, since Kreg sell this fence as an accessory, I would expect that there should be some warning to look at the compatibility chart.

    That said, there is a fix ... actually two ...

    The first is to add spacers to pull the fence away from the side of the table, as with my Hammer below ...



    That requires some precision metalwork, and not my preferred option.

    The other method is to attach the fence in the expected way, mark off where the blade passes, and then saw the rail (on your tablesaw) at the point. The rail needs to be supported by bolts along it length, so mark and drill them before cutting the rail. The saw kerf will likely be needed to be widened a smidgeon, but a total width of 3mm should be ideal.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  8. #8
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    Cutting the fence is sounding like a possible solution. Thanks for the suggestions.

  9. #9
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    Matt I saw you asking about fences in your thread. Wish I had warned you about the Kreg ,I have one on a 14'' Delta saw and should have remembered that it would be an issue on the Centauro.

  10. #10
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    matt,

    i have the same issue with my band saw. but, it only takes a minute to take out the two bolts that hold the rail to the table with a ratcheting end wrench. i carefully scribed the position of the rail on the front of the table. i also have to loosen and dismount a plate that hold the two sides of the table perfectly flat and in the same plane.

    i considered spacing the rail in front of the table with both bolts on the left side of the slot, and that may work for you if your table table sides have a way of staying true.

    i do like the fence for its quick and versatile adjustments for height and projection distance in relationship to the blade

  11. #11
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    I had the same issue with my Davis-Wells bandsaw. I cut the rail. Mike O'Keefe

  12. Just being honest, are you sure you aren't blowing this out of proportion? I'd argue that *most* bandsaws are set up with the blade slot parallel to the fence because the manufacturers never planned on having a fence attached... This is hardly Kreg's fault here, just looking at it should have been pretty obvious that you would have to remove the fence to swap the blade...

    That said...

    I had a Kreg Fence on my old Craftsman band saw (slot parallel to the fence) and it took me all of 30 seconds to use a combination square to mark the position of the fence compared to the table, loosen the bolt on the left side of the rail and remove the bolt from the right side of the rail, swing it out of the way and swap the blade... Once you swapped out the blade its another 30 seconds or so to get it exactly where you left it...

    Changing the blade on a band saw takes at least 10-15 minutes to get everything tracking properly anyways and then you have to adjust the drift on the fence again...

    Just a pro-tip, CRANK DOWN THE BOLTS that you use to set the drift on the Kreg fence once its set, I had it slowly creep out on me once when it was new and it cost me a *really* nice piece of walnut

    The last thought... Just mount the the fence to the back of the table and you will never have to remove it again.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dustin Bullard View Post
    Just being honest, are you sure you aren't blowing this out of proportion? I'd argue that *most* bandsaws are set up with the blade slot parallel to the fence because the manufacturers never planned on having a fence attached... This is hardly Kreg's fault here, just looking at it should have been pretty obvious that you would have to remove the fence to swap the blade...

    That said...

    I had a Kreg Fence on my old Craftsman band saw (slot parallel to the fence) and it took me all of 30 seconds to use a combination square to mark the position of the fence compared to the table, loosen the bolt on the left side of the rail and remove the bolt from the right side of the rail, swing it out of the way and swap the blade... Once you swapped out the blade its another 30 seconds or so to get it exactly where you left it...

    Changing the blade on a band saw takes at least 10-15 minutes to get everything tracking properly anyways and then you have to adjust the drift on the fence again...

    Just a pro-tip, CRANK DOWN THE BOLTS that you use to set the drift on the Kreg fence once its set, I had it slowly creep out on me once when it was new and it cost me a *really* nice piece of walnut

    The last thought... Just mount the the fence to the back of the table and you will never have to remove it again.
    Dustin - Thanks for the "Pro-Tip".
    David

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dustin Bullard View Post
    Just being honest, are you sure you aren't blowing this out of proportion?.
    Yes I’m sure. Posting a thread on an online forum isn’t “blowing it out of proportion.” Ranting about it wouldn’t be necessary, but I don’t think that’s what I did.

    Why wouldn’t Kreg offer a spacer kit so they could sell more product? Or at least Kreg’s CS people could have suggested the things suggested here.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Day View Post
    Yes I’m sure. Posting a thread on an online forum isn’t “blowing it out of proportion.” Ranting about it wouldn’t be necessary, but I don’t think that’s what I did.

    Why wouldn’t Kreg offer a spacer kit so they could sell more product? Or at least Kreg’s CS people could have suggested the things suggested here.
    Hi Matt,

    I completely agree with you. I'm sure you are not the first one to run into this problem - and I'm sure that you won't be the last. I would think that Kreg would offer a spacer/adapter kit for this situation. On the flip side, perhaps Kreg has done some customer research to find out how often bandsaw owners change out their blades and concluded that it may not be a major inconvenience to swing the fence support bar out of the way during a blade change (if the blade changes are only occasionally made). It is also good that you have pointed out this shortcoming to any potential buyers of this Kreg fence kit here at SMC. I would agree with Dustin that a first time blade install on a new bandsaw, or a blade change to a blade of a different width and/or thickness could take from 5 to 10 minutes to get the blade guides and supports dialed in. In this case - it would not seem that it would take that much more time to swing the fence support out of the way. On the other hand - for those who have an assortment of blades all the same thickness and width, but with different tooth configurations and spacing - they may be switching out their blades much for frequently in which case it would probably be a major inconvenience to need to remove the fence assembly for each and every blade change.

    In my case - I do mostly metal working/fabrication and have probably 10 or more bandsaws of different configurations set up with different blades for different applications. Not only do I not like to change blades, but in a commercial setting - "time is money" and I would be spending a lot of time changing out blades. Wood working is a hobby for me - I have two dedicated bandsaws in the wood shop and very rarely change the blades on those.

    David
    Last edited by David Buchhauser; 06-10-2019 at 8:12 PM.

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