Kreg bandsaw fence - table slot conflict

[Mike Kees]

I have a gut felling that Kreg originally designed this fence for the 14'' Delta saw and clones. On these saws the blade slot is parallel to the fence so no need to move it. On saws where the blade slot comes straight out to the front or perpindicular to the fence is where spacers come in to the equation.

[George Bokros]

I have a gut felling that Kreg originally designed this fence for the 14'' Delta saw and clones. On these saws the blade slot is parallel to the fence so no need to move it. On saws where the blade slot comes straight out to the front or perpindicular to the fence is where spacers come in to the equation.

My 14" Delta has the blade slot perpendicular to the fence.

[Mike Kees]

Interesting mine is parallel.

[Mike Kees]

I had this all wrong. I was thinking of the fence RAIL ,because that is what affects changing the blade not the fence itself. Sorry about that.

[Alex Burkhardt]

To satisfy my curiosity -- what is the proposed or manufacturer design for a fence rail in the case that the blade slot is parallel with the cutting direction? Is it bolted solely to one side of the split in the table, and stands off an appropriate amount to allow for clearance of the blade? Are these bandsaws designed for fences at all?

Fitting aftermarket accessories is often an exercise in creativity, and exponentially so as the age of the item to be modified increases.

[Patrick Sparks]

I'm a little late to this thread, but have the same problem with my Laguna Tools 16/Meber 400....the original OEM fence also has to be removed in order to change the blade. I also bought the Kreg... live and learn.

[Jay Norton]

Rikon bandsaws also have the table slot in the front. Their factory fence uses stand offs/spacers to allow blade removal. I adapted the same idea when mounting the Kreg fence (required drilling new holes in the fence rail)

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[Karl Leboeuf]

Hi Jay,

I have become frustrated with the stock fence on my Rikon 10-326 and would like to attempt to replace it with the Kreg one as well. I like your approach and would love to hear whether you're still happy with it.

Also, what size bolts did you use and how long are your spacers? It looks like you drilled holes to make the rightmost edge of the fence assembly approximately flush with the edge of the table. Are you happy with that position, or do you wish it were moved a little to the left or right?

[Lee Schierer]

Looking at the photos of the fence on the Kreg site, It would appear that you could move the screws at the right end of the track to be just to the left of the blade slot. This would enable you to insert some stand off spacers that are thick enough to allow your widest blade to come clear of the slot and then slide out to the right. You would need to drill a new hole in your saw table to the left of the blade slot as well. These modifications should allow you to use the existing fence. Jay shows the type of modification I'm suggesting. I would suggest that make the standoffs such that they have a larger outside diameter to more securely support the fence rail than the Rikon set up.

[Jay Norton]

Hi Jay,

I have become frustrated with the stock fence on my Rikon 10-326 and would like to attempt to replace it with the Kreg one as well. I like your approach and would love to hear whether you're still happy with it.

Also, what size bolts did you use and how long are your spacers? It looks like you drilled holes to make the rightmost edge of the fence assembly approximately flush with the edge of the table. Are you happy with that position, or do you wish it were moved a little to the left or right?

Karl,

The spacers I used are 1/2” OD x 1” long. Bolts are 3/8”.

I am happy so far with the solution and the position.

I opted to keep the rail flush with the right edge of the table as I was always walking into the factory fence bar since it stuck out by about 6”

Jay