Fixing half blind dovetails?

[Anthony Scott]

So tried some half blind dovetails for a drawer. There is a pretty good gap at the baseline. I’m not sure what I did wrong. Can I fix this or should I start over ? Thanks.

[Tom M King]

Get a finer pointed pencil, and leave the line.

[David Eisenhauer]

Can you remark the baseline on the drawer sides and then extend the cuts on the tails to the new baseline? Or you can insert shim material (dark) in the gaps to hide the gaps. Regardless whether or not if there is debris left in the drawer front socket corners that is preventing a full seat of the side into the drawer front socket, (from here) it looks like the pin ends are bottomed out on the side baseline.

[Anthony Scott]

Good idea. I’ll try that.

Can you remark the baseline on the drawer sides and then extend the cuts on the tails to the new baseline? Or you can insert shim material (dark) in the gaps to hide the gaps. Regardless whether or not if there is debris left in the drawer front socket corners that is preventing a full seat of the side into the drawer front socket, (from here) it looks like the pin ends are bottomed out on the side baseline.

[Derek Cohen]

Before you remake anything, there may be a simple fix.

The gap against the socket baseline is even across the board. It is very possible that there is an obstruction forcing the tail board away from end. The obstruction must be removed to allow the tails to close up.

Check the socket walls. It may be waste in the corners. The baseline wall may slope rather than be square - to be sure, you could undercut it very slightly.

If that does not do it, the pin ends look close to being flush against the baseline if the tail board, and thus is the barrier. Either pare away a smidgeon from the tail baseline or the pin sockets ends.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Anthony Scott]

Will do thanks.

Before you remake anything, there may be a simple fix.

The gap against the socket baseline is even across the board. It is very possible that there is an obstruction forcing the tail board away from end. The obstruction must be removed to allow the tails to close up.

Check the socket walls. It may be waste in the corners. The baseline wall may slope rather than be square - to be sure, you could undercut it very slightly.

If that does not do it, the pin ends look close to being flush against the baseline if the tail board, and thus is the barrier. Either pare away a smidgeon from the tail baseline or the pin sockets ends.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Koepke]

So tried some half blind dovetails for a drawer. There is a pretty good gap at the baseline. I’m not sure what I did wrong. Can I fix this or should I start over ? Thanks.

Those look a lot better than some of mine.

Look at them closely, see if you can figure out how it went wrong. Using what you learn, try for better results next time.

jtk

[Mark Rainey]

Anthony, I think you got good advice. I have to admit I try my best & I sometimes end up with similar gaps. I shim them. I will strive to do better.

[Pat Barry]

Epoxy will solve your problem!

[Anthony Scott]

If you were going to shim, would you do the glue up and wait for it to dry before shimming? Or put the drawer together and fit the shims before gluing up?

[Mark Rainey]

If you were going to shim, would you do the glue up and wait for it to dry before shimming? Or put the drawer together and fit the shims before gluing up?

I usually glue up first. Sometimes if I use clamps the gap will lessen, sometimes they look even worse. I usually save the plastic surgery for later, after assembling the drawer and even after fitting the drawer.

[David Eisenhauer]

Agree with Mark. get the drawer fabbed up and fitting properly before addressing the cosmetic fix with some shims.

[Derek Cohen]

I would have edited my post, above, but cannot seem to do so.

My earlier respond was how you could fix the dovetails. However I assumed that you would be aware that doing so (the way given) would affect the length of the drawer side. This is not an issue if you shorten the other side. It is a smidgeon, so not a bid deal.

The issue with filling gaps at the socket baseline is one of aesthetics - a wider baseline. The fill there is easy - simply a wedge glued in. Since it is end grain, it will be invisible once oiled.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Tom Bender]

Practice, practice practice. Your first dovetail will look like your first dovetail. If that's the case here, you did pretty well.