Movement during glue-ups

[Doug Dawson]

You need a pretty long jointer for 10’ boards, I put extensions on mine for work that long..

I was working with some 10 foot oak boards last week, for a large shelving unit, and my 7 foot jointer bed (PM882) would have done the job, but I thought it would be a bit awkward to move them across it (5/4, fairly heavy, and I'm an old man.) So I used a Stanley #8, tuning the edge against an 8 foot straightedge. With a sharp blade, it worked pretty well. I don't usually work with longer than 8 foot boards for components. Just a thought for the OP re how it could be done without a stationary jointer.

[glenn bradley]

Nobody uses dowells?

Biscuits are much more forgiving, particularly on a big job like this.

The "forgiveness" is his primary problem. If he wants a method to keep the boards aligned I would take dowels I made myself over biscuits and a spline over either.

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Nathan, good face jointing will assure success with this method. S2S or skip-planing from the yard doesn't count BTW. Route yourself a nice 'known-width' groove, mill your spline stock to fit snug and you're all set.

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If the ends will show (no breadboards) you can run stopped groove and make the spline a bit short of each end.

[Doug Dawson]

The "forgiveness" is his primary problem. If he wants a method to keep the boards aligned I would take dowels I made myself over biscuits and a spline over either.

That's what the cauls are for.

[Prashun Patel]

doing then one at a time allows better control.

If the edges are live, make blocks to fit over the end so the clamps don’t damage the edge and pull the pieces together at right angles . Trying to pull together a slanted live edge makes it harder to control slipping.

If you are going to be doing a lot of these, it is worth it to get good at hand jointing. It is good for correcting errors from an 8-12” jointer. A hand plane will also make quick work of flattening the seam. This can be done across the grain so the rock of tearoit is eliminated.

[Jerry Wright]

Also, too much glue - increases slipping and sliding.

[al heitz]

Chris beat me to the salt trick.

[Andrew Hughes]

If you take the salt, biscuits and bread board ends and put them all together it remind me of supper time.
Just saying

[glenn bradley]

That's what the cauls are for.

Quite true and my preferred method. It sounded to me like the OP was after something else :-)

[Patrick Kane]

If you plan on doing a lot of these, the festool domino will become your best friend. Like everyone else said, milling your own boards is first priority. I dont mill lumber for a panel unless its going into clamps that day. From what i read, you are getting S4S boards that might be freshly surfaced, or surfaced months ago and then stored. Not that i know a ton about lumberyard functions, but i doubt they fire up their moulder to do a 6-8 board run.

[Mel Fulks]

If you take the salt, biscuits and bread board ends and put them all together it remind me of supper time.
Just saying

That is the unvarnished truth!!

[Mike Henderson]

To combat movement during a glue up next time just sprinkle a bit of salt on the glue before joining. This allows for a bit of bite between the two pieces and almost eliminates any movement completely.

While salt will work, I'd recommend fine sand instead. What you want is something to combat the sliding. Most glue is water based and the sale can dissolve in the glue and you lose that "roughness". Also, salt is corrosive and sand is not.

Mike

[Bill McNiel]

Given the lack of an appropriate jointer or solid hand plane skills, I would suggest simultaneous jointing using a track saw (either purchased or shop made). Clamp the two boards, edge to edge, to a flat surface and rip the entire length of joining. With this process it doesn't matter if the blade is dead perpendicular or the cut dead straight as you will have a mirrored joint line in both axis.

Glue up in two board segments as suggested by others. I believe that using cauls for glue-up produces a coplanar surface more reliably than biscuits.

As always - just my opinion based on personal experience.

[Doug Dawson]

Given the lack of an appropriate jointer or solid hand plane skills, I would suggest simultaneous jointing using a track saw (either purchased or shop made). Clamp the two boards, edge to edge, to a flat surface and rip the entire length of joining. With this process it doesn't matter if the blade is dead perpendicular or the cut dead straight as you will have a mirrored joint line in both axis.

The longest guide track I know of, the Makita 118", is not long enough to do 10 foot boards (even if it didn't need the overhang.) But for shorter boards it would work. As you say, the edges need to be done simultaneously (the Makita 118 e.g. is not usually reference straight.)

[Mel Fulks]

While salt will work, I'd recommend fine sand instead. What you want is something to combat the sliding. Most glue is water based and the sale can dissolve in the glue and you lose that "roughness". Also, salt is corrosive and sand is not.

Mike

I like the sand idea,and suggest a warning label about what happens to the planer if the people of the
future have thoughts about turning it into bird houses and cutting boards.

[Andrew Hughes]

If you add sand then you will have biscuits and grit. Breakfast dinner