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Thread: 2 SawStop questions?

  1. #16
    I have some feather boards that have aluminum tracks that go into the miter slots and expand out to hold the feather boards in place. I haven't used them yet, however. I did try them in the slots to be sure they work.

    Hard to say what the issue was. I would check the alignment of the blade to the rip fence to be sure they are parallel. If that is not the issue, then maybe the boards were not straight. I have a joiner but it is an old Inca and relatively short. My skill level is not so great with it so I usually use my track saw and long guide to get a straight edge. But some wood moves again when I rip to width. But usually that does not happen. With a correctly tuned saw and a straight edge on the board, I don't have a problem putting a rabbet in the edge. I almost always use my table saw for this. I do not love screaming routers (but I have 4 good ones). It is safer to put a sacrificial surface on the rip fence and cut the rabbet on the rip fence side of the board. You cannot go too deep that way. I usually don't do this but if I was having trouble I would. I usually only do this with a dado blade.

  2. #17
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    Do you guys all really work around the fact that the board isn’t flat/straight? That seems like the first thing to fix in the future.

  3. #18
    Join Date
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    I make it flat and accurate, but you still need a way to hold it tight to the fence. They are separate issues which are occasionally related.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  4. #19
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    Nov 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Day View Post
    Do you guys all really work around the fact that the board isn’t flat/straight? That seems like the first thing to fix in the future.
    Sometimes it is unavoidable. Long stock is a good example of that. If the piece finishes at a long length then a person better have a plan B or have a really good technique on a jointer.

    I have seen so called "wood workers" on YouTube who are making something that has 24 inch long parts, so they take an 8 foot piece of lumber and rip it to final width. Sometimes the God's smile on them. But if that piece starts to move while going through the saw they will not have pieces of the same width when they are done.

    In other words, I break all my stuff down into rough sizes and then see about getting it flat and square, like we are told to do.

  5. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Day View Post
    Do you guys all really work around the fact that the board isn’t flat/straight? That seems like the first thing to fix in the future.
    Sounds like you haven't done much of this stuff.

  6. #21
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    Dec 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnny means View Post
    Sounds like you haven't done much of this stuff.
    Wrong. First thing in any project is proper stock prep. Not saying it has to be perfect, but my feeling from the OP is that he’s frustrated about his stock not being flat.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
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    Leland, NC
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    A while back I needed to do a custom porch using tongue and groove boards. I had a large quantity of lumber I wanted to use up but it was not tongue and groove. It was not nice and flat either. BTW, I do not like the look of "decking" on a victorian house that is over 120 years old. So that is why it needed to be tongue and grooved.

    Someone above boldly stated he would never use a router. Uh huh, then he would have never got those boards tongue and grooved so they matched up correctly. On an average table saw a person cannot get enough pressure on a 2X6 to force it flat to the table and still be able to push it through the saw.

    I set up my bench to be able to clamp the boards quickly so they did not slide around. As far as I am concerned it did not take longer than it would have taken on a table saw. Maybe even easier to do because I was not slinging and flipping 8 foot long boards around.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Costa View Post
    1) What are you guys using to clean the top?

    2) The owners manual shows plans to make feather boards. How are these feather boards attached to the table?

    I'm extremely discouraged with woodworking today. I had to put a 1/4" groove into the edge of two 64" pieces of 3/4" cherry and since (of course) the boards were bowed a little I ended up making total hack grooves since I couldn't keep the stock flat against the fence. Wood costs way too much to be making this kind of firepit kindling.
    Yes, it’s no fun when that happens.

    You’ve discovered that machines need flat, straight wood, which means good jointing and planing.

    I doubt a feather board will take a bow out, a stock feeder can in many situations.....
    Regards, Rod

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