Bandsaw Table Pin Help

[Curt Coucill]

I have a PM 141 that I'm re-doing. It was missing the table pin when I purchased it. Do you guys see any reason not to drill & tap the hole & put a machine screw in it? Thanks

[Rod Sheridan]

Yes, the hole in the table is tapered, for a tapered pin which forces the table into alignment.

A machine screw won't do that.

Just buy a suitable taper pin from an industrial supplier...................Rod.

[ken masoumi]

In the meantime if you find a correct size wall plug,insert a screw in it and then gently tap it in the hole ,it should align the table.
wall-plug-for-hollow-walls-12325-2476577.jpg

[phil harold]

I think you could try other table pins
http://www.grizzly.com/parts/P0580100
for 2.50 it is worth a try
http://www.grizzly.com/products/G0580/parts/MAIN

[Bill Huber]

It it $3.25 at Ereplacement Parts.

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/tab...-p-437241.html

[Lee Schierer]

You may not really need a pin. The purpose of the pin was to maintain alignment of the table as the cast iron was machined and as the cast iron aged. Newly cast cast iron needs to be stress relieved before machining and can continue to change dimensions as it is machined and as it ages. If your table is aligned without the pin, then you no longer need the pin to keep the front and rear aligned. Place a good straight edge across the split near the edge of the table and see if you can see daylight under the straight edge.

[Rod Sheridan]

You may not really need a pin. The purpose of the pin was to maintain alignment of the table as the cast iron was machined as as the cast iron aged. Newly cast cast iron needs to be stress relieved before machining and can continue to change dimensions as it is machined and as it ages. If your table is aligned without the pin, then you no longer need the pin to keep the front and rear aligned. Place a good straight edge across the split near the edge of the table and see if you can see daylight under the straight edge.

Very true Lee, however I found that without a pin when I put something heavy on the table they come out of alignment until the weight is on both sections of the table.

Regards, Rod.

[John McClanahan]

In the meantime if you find a correct size wall plug,insert a screw in it and then gently tap it in the hole ,it should align the table.
wall-plug-for-hollow-walls-12325-2476577.jpg

In the event the taper pin gets lost, this is a great idea!

John

[Thomas Canfield]

A drift pin or center punch could be used in a pinch until a replacement can be obtained, just have a longer piece sticking out.

[Matthew Hills]

Powermatic sold me a replacement pin pretty cheaply... just have to dig through their ordering site.

I've also seen tapered dowels used... although those were usually harder to pull out for blade changes.

Matt

[David Doria]

Is it OK to hit the pin a little bit with a small hammer? When I press it in finger tight my split table is still not quite flush (when I push a board through it gets stuck on the lip of the second table).

[Ed Aumiller]

Take a 1/4" bolt (or size needed) and taper it on a grinder... quick, cheap, easy & if lost, easy to replace...

[Bruce Wrenn]

Is it OK to hit the pin a little bit with a small hammer? When I press it in finger tight my split table is still not quite flush (when I push a board through it gets stuck on the lip of the second table).

Tap, not hit. To remove pin, see Bill Huber's tip in current issue of Woodsmith.

[Kerry Batdorf]

Lee, do you know if the taper is some 'standard' taper for this sort of application or will grinding a bolt to some arbitrary taper that contacts the hole surface at any internal point is sufficient? I tend to think it would be best to not have a single point/circumference of contact. Yes, I know, probably getting pretty petty with this, but, might as well try. Also, some tables have tapered, threaded screws, e.g. my Delta Rockwell 28-350-20. I suppose finding or making such a screw will never happen, so, I'll probably tap in some sort of tapered pin.

[Bill Dufour]

I would assume it is some standard Amercian taper size pin. I would replace it with one that has internal threads. That way it will not stick out and snag your clothes as you walk buy. Use a slide hammer to remove it when needed.
Bil lD.

on edit; According to my research
#7 sticks out a bit much
#6 is too short unless threaded.

Quick ebay search shows cost about $5 each but they are all external threaded. I think they are hardened so they can not be drilled and tapped.