Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 46

Thread: Need New Compressor Help!

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    9,029
    Years ago, when the only teflon tape available, or at least that was for sale around here, was the white tape, I had to use pipe dope on both threads, and the white teflon tape between, to ever get all the leaks out of a 175 psi compressor system. That particular setup is still holding leak free today. The compound probably would have held fine by itself, but I used the tape anyway. My later systems just use the sealant, and are working fine.

    I've had better luck with the gray teflon tape lately, on other things, but still use tread sealant when I'm rigging up some new fittings on a compressor.

  2. #17
    So...just went take a close look at the compressor. I'm thinking of making up a bracket to hold the filter/regulator and attaching and attaching it to the main motor mounting bracket. If I have to move the compressor, everything will move solidly with it. I'll use pipe dope for the connections.
    I've read it's a good idea to install a ball valve at the main drain, under the tank. Taking a look at the pic, how do I do that? Thanks for your patience with a real compressor dummy.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    9,029
    I use a galvanized street elbow, and some length nipple to put the ball valve out where you can reach it, but still underneath enough to protect it, and feet.

    A street elbow has male threads on one side, so it can stay tucked up close under the tank. They have that stuff back in the plumbing section.

  4. #19
    Any idea on size of the elbow? 1/2...3/8...?

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    9,029
    No idea. It's the same as that valve is where the red sealant is on it. You should be able to tell while it's in the store. You can surely tell by screwing that thing out.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    9,979
    I bought a similar compressor and it rocked a little on startup. I stopped on the side of the highway and picked up some tire treads thrown by big rigs. Put one under each foot and it stays in place now. I really should chain it to the wall so it can not fall over.
    No idea where you live but if it is North America you live in a earthquake zone or a huricane area that could knock over the tank and shear off pressure lines.
    Bil lD.

  7. #22
    Yeah...NorCal...and I def plan on strapping it, once in place. Yes It's going to be on a mobile base, but I'll only be moving it when I have to.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Griswold Connecticut
    Posts
    6,931
    Derek
    It looks like a 1/4" NPT drain valve on the bottom of the tank. It is more than likely operated with an allen wrench.
    If you want change it out switch it to a 1/4" male NPT to 1/4" female NPT street elbow. Put about a10"-12", 1/4" NPT pipe nipple, and it should locate the new 1/4" NPT ball valve just outside the circumference of the tank.
    Last edited by Mike Cutler; 06-02-2019 at 5:22 PM.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  9. #24
    Thanks Mike. All great information and just what I need. I don't know why, but I have such a block about all this stuff. I guess I've always gone 1/4 NPT on everything and never gave it another thought, not even knowing it was 1/4 NPT. Funny...

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Griswold Connecticut
    Posts
    6,931
    Derek

    Be careful when you take that fitting out, that the bung doesn't rotate with it. That fitting looks to have a red "thread locker" on it. The bung is most likely sealed with a o-ring type seal, so it's not gorilla torqued into place. If that fitting is really glued in there, you might have to heat it with a heat gun first.

    I always have trouble in home centers because I am looking for the parts I would use at work, an industrial environment, and have to find the "non-industrial"equivalent.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  11. #26
    If I run hose off of the tank, what 3/4" hose should I look for?

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Medina Ohio
    Posts
    4,532
    I would change out the drain valve on the bottom with an auto drain

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Griswold Connecticut
    Posts
    6,931
    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Arita View Post
    If I run hose off of the tank, what 3/4" hose should I look for?
    I used a section of hydraulic hose from Tractor supply. I Think it's rated for 1500+psi. Basically though, any semi sttiff hose with a working pressure that exceeds your compressor discharge pressure would be fine. I think GoodYear makes some hose rated for 300psi.
    I thought you were transitioning to 3/8" off the isolation ball valve?
    Last edited by Mike Cutler; 06-02-2019 at 8:24 PM.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  14. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Cutler View Post
    I used a section of hydraulic hose from Tractor supply. I Think it's rated for 1500+psi. Basically though, any semi sttiff hose with a working pressure that exceeds your compressor discharge pressure would be fine. I think GoodYear makes some hose rated for 300psi.
    I thought you were transitioning to 3/8" off the isolation ball valve?
    Ya...that's likely what I'll do. What I have to do is, sit down with paper and pencil and diagram it out, simple as it may seem. Wish there was shop close by that has the parts and the knowledge. Oh well...that's the drawback of online shopping.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    9,979
    I replaced the tank drain on mine with a street elbow into PEX then about 16" of pex to an auto drain valve. I ran some old rubber air hose from the drain to outside the shop to reduce noise on blowoff.
    Bil lD

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •