I like that idea!!Originally Posted by Bill Dufour
Thank you.
Contributor
I like that idea!!
Thank you.
"The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)
Contributor
I should have put a ball valve ahead of the automatic one in case it needs any repair. I did have to take it apart and clean out some goo once.
[OP]
Contributor
I'm kinda thinking going from output adapter, to ball valve, to filter/regulator, to output connector...seems like a lot to be hanging out there. Can I somehow hang it off the large motor mount bracket? Does anyone do that?
Member
Not trying to promote one brand over another but after going over the reviews and all I wound up getting a Quincy Model # 2V41C60VC air-compressor from Lowe's. Yes it cost more, but it will be a good air-compressor that should last me the rest of my life and be capable of operating a DA-sander. I think it was $1100 and took about 10 days to come in. The web-site say $1500, Northern runs them for cheaper than that, I was prepared to make them do a price match and it rang up $70 less than Northern. Maybe Lowe's or Quincy was running a special last month or something, I don't know, but I did not pay $1500.
[OP]
Contributor
Ya...there's no way even $1100 fits my retirement budget. The Kobalt is the best bang, for its low buck price. That decision has been made, so now its back to, how do I hook this thing up...
[OP]
Contributor
OK...here's what I'm thinking...I'll install a plate on the end of the U shaped motor mount to serve as a platform for the parts of the install. 3/4 street elbow off the output heading to the left. Then the ball valve to an elbow heading up, then another elbow going right, then a reducer to 3/8, then the filter/reg and finally the output. Now, does this sound doable? Am I reducing to 3/8 at an appropriate point...maybe reducer right off the ball valve? Would I be better off using hose, rather than the elbows and nipples to make the turn?
Last edited by Derek Arita; 06-03-2019 at 3:57 PM.
Member
That is somewhat similar to how I did mine. Mine already had a shut-off valve coming out of the air compressor, I think 3/4" going to a 1/2" bell reducer. I came out with a short nipple, added a T, the T is so I could run a straight 8" nipple going down and added another 1/2" ball valve (the leg going down is supposed to catch water as well, then I can occasionally drain that ball valve periodically or at least check it), then went up with 2 - 10" nipples, added another elbow with a 3/8" reducer in the end of it, 3/8" nipple, regulator, nipple, filter, then made my own manifold out of 3/8" T's, 3 of them, and went ahead and installed 3 female quick disconnects.
If any of this helps.
If you look up the model of the Quincy I gave you will see that they have an extension for the bottom drain port that is mounted to one of the 3 legs, so you do not have to get on your hands and knees and feel around up underneath it. Doesn't look to hard to make something similar either.
Lowe's also sells a vibration dampening pad kit, like $15 or so.
I think the majority of the quick disconnects, regulators and filters are 3/8" NPT.
Contributor
I would mount the filters, regualtors, etc on the wall at eye level. Connect with a short length of rubber hose.
Bill D.
Member
I would not disagree with this logic at all. I however simply did not have the room, so I made my set-up loop back over the top of the air-compressor, if that was understood in my post.
This may seem odd to some, or even problematic with the positioning of such being that high. But I am also a tall guy and am forced to maximize for space, even when it makes some things less convenient.
[OP]
Contributor
Jak, I'd love to see a pic if you can. Thanks for the reply.
Member
Absolutely, unfortunately I don't think that I can post pictures here anymore. I was going to send you a private message but that feature has been blocked from me as well.
I am not a paying member, sorry. If you want to send me an e-mail to jakson200369 at yahoo.com then I will gladly send you a picture(s) tonight via e-mail.
Hopefully I don't get into trouble for doing that either........
I used about a 2 foot piece of unistrut, a unistrut bracket and a 3/4" conduit clamp to secure the loop over the top back to the air-compressor. I bolted the unistrut to that top upside down "U" plate.
Contributor
I recently went through this learning process also. I got the equivalent compressor from Dewalt. What a learning curve. Northern Tool has some good parts also. I added one of their drain plug extension kits. I also wanted to keep my compressor a bit portable. So I built a platform with castors. It is not much bigger than the compressors foot print, maybe 24x24. I also included what I call a "pony" wall on the platform. This is where I mounted the regulator, filter, etc. And I also mounted a simple garden hose reel to wrap the air line around.
Richard
Contributor
I have used this brand of 2-ear clamps for 45 years, and never had one come loose. They come in a bunch of sizes. I don't know if this is the size you need-was just the first link that Google found.
You don't need to buy their special pliers. I have always just used end cutting nippers, that I always keep around for pulling nails. Just don't squeeze hard enough to cut the metal, of course.
I bought a Chinese assortment set, but they were so soft that I didn't trust them.
https://www.amazon.com/Oetiker-10100...JJB9AWAW7ZTGKS
You can get them off with a small nail set, and even reuse them. The small nailset will start in the little hole, and then drive it in so the taper opens the clamp.
[OP]
Contributor
What do you folks think about the braided steel hose, drain plug replacement kits? If not, what's a good alternative?
[OP]
Contributor
By the way...anyone on the fence about this compressor, it’s on sale right now for $499. Darn good price for this compressor.
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