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Thread: Fixing a convex sole hand plane

  1. #31
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    So ... the idea is that one can demonstrate/experience a superiority of skill/technique through using a "crappy tool" to do the job?
    Of course not. Often one might be asked to work on something when they do not have "a well tuned tool" at hand. Being able to utilize what is less than optimum is sometimes necessary. Part of a craftsperson's technique, imo, is being able to "tune" a crappy tool to do the best it is capable of doing. Another part is being able to sharpen the blade and use the adjustments for best performance on the work at hand.

    What is that old saying about a good worker doesn't blame shoddy work on bad tools? Part of that is because a good worker will not put up with a shoddy tool for long before fixing it or replacing it.

    If the plane were mine to deal with the sole would be flattened to the best of my ability. That can be a lot of work. If done incorrectly it can make the plane worse. My suggestion for Anuj is to see if a local machine shop can be found to correct the sole.

    Anuj mentioned this plane was purchased long ago. Maybe the lesson to be learned in a thread like this is do not purchase something that will sit on a shelf a long time before finding it has a problem. Most likely if this problem arose and was reported within a week or so of purchasing the response from the seller might have been different.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  2. #32
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    Anuj mentioned this plane was purchased long ago. Maybe the lesson to be learned in a thread like this is do not purchase something that will sit on a shelf a long time before finding it has a problem.

    >> Yup. I jump on buying tools even when I don't need them right way or near future. Have curbed the habit a bit but still not completely cured.
    >> Saw Lee Valley free shipping yesterday and 'am restraining myself to not order everything that are sitting in "Purchase Later".

    If done incorrectly it can make the plane worse.

    >> This is what scares me.

    My suggestion for Anuj is to see if a local machine shop can be found to correct the sole.

    >> Don't know any but will sure see if something is in area. Though now will make the shooting board first and try the plane as is, and then go from there.

  3. #33
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    Though now will make the shooting board first and try the plane as is, and then go from there.
    A #3 isn't really what you would want for a shooting board plane. A longer and wider plane allows for more "running room" after the toe is registered on the work piece.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  4. #34
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    I have a #4, #5 and #7 apart from #3.

    Which plane would work better? If not #3 then I am biased towards #5 as it doesn't see much use.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anuj Prateek View Post
    I have a #4, #5 and #7 apart from #3.

    Which plane would work better? If not #3 then I am biased towards #5 as it doesn't see much use.
    A #5 is often referred to as a "Jack" plane as in a Jack of all trades. It is often used as a shooting plane.

    If you have enough room the #7 can be useful due to its weight and a wider blade.

    At times in one of my low angle block planes is also used on a shooting board.

    For my shooting work a Low Angle Jack plane is used. Due to an old shoulder injury an LN #62 was purchased to endure less shock to my right shoulder. Since then, my shooting board has been modified to work both left and right handed. Now most of my shooting is done left handed.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  6. #36
    If the sole is convex, one thing you can do is to use a short strip of sandpaper on the granite block -- maybe just a few inches long, or even less if the convexity is very localized. With a very short strip of sandpaper, even if you do rock the plane when moving it back and forth, there's simply no abrasive that can remove material at the ends. Once the convexity is removed (or even if you go too far and make it concave), you can then use a longer strip to really flatten the bottom. If the plane is longer than your granite block (or really, the sandpaper), you will have to be careful to apply pressure in a way that doesn't make the plane concave.

  7. #37
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    IF it is just on the ends...that would be from wear...all that pressure on the toe to start, the all the pressure on the heel at the end....adds up over the decades of use. try the plane out, just like the oldtimers used it....might be surprised.....

    Check the areas just behind the toe, and just in front of the heel...see IF they align with the areas right in front of the mouth, and right behind it......

    2 finger check to see IF a sole is "warped" ( wood warps...cast iron? Not.)

    1 finger in front of the front handle and 1 right behind the rear handle...try to get the plane to "see-saw" using pressure with one finger and then the other....IF the surface you set the plane on is flat...doubt IF you will get any movement....just a quick 1 minute check....let me know.

  8. #38
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    I have nine planes and non have ever needed grinding. I do have Hock Irons and Breakers on them.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by lowell holmes View Post
    I have nine planes and non have ever needed grinding. I do have Hock Irons and Breakers on them.
    There are many more than that in my accumulation. Only one of them ever had a problem with the sole being out of flat. From all that can be determined it was due to a previous owner trying to lap the sole.

    So often there is a video or other 'how to tune your plane' article leading people to believe lapping a sole is something every plane requires.

    If the sole is rusty or has scratches, it can be cleaned up a little with care on a flat surface or with a sanding block. Otherwise it is best to leave it alone.

    Unless you have a very smooth and wide file you might want to stick to sandpaper on a hard flat surface or on a hardwood block for localized metal removal.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  10. #40
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    Tried it. Kept plane on jointer table. Very slight see-saw. How do I explain slight? Can see it by eyes but cannot feel finger moving.

    Plane has not seen any use. Sole has factory grind. My crude guess: if I draw a straight line from front and another from back, then they will intersect at an angle right behind the mouth.

  11. #41
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    Thanks Winston. Saved the tip. Will try after I gain a little more experience. Right now I am sure I will screw it up more.

  12. #42
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    Noted. Have room for #7. Will size the board accordingly.

    My #7 saves the title of most used plane, for me.

    Another quick question. Does this help with using plane on shooting board: http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/pag...,41182&p=77042


    #7 is Lee Valley custom with standard configuration.

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anuj Prateek View Post
    Tried it. Kept plane on jointer table. Very slight see-saw. How do I explain slight? Can see it by eyes but cannot feel finger moving.

    Plane has not seen any use. Sole has factory grind. My crude guess: if I draw a straight line from front and another from back, then they will intersect at an angle right behind the mouth.
    Anuj; prior to checking the soles flatness, is the double iron locked in tension with the lever cap.

  14. #44
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    Some photos

    Yup. It was on, blade retracted.

    Took some photos of the plane. Tried shining a light from behind but keeping phone steady is difficult. If you zoom on photo a bit, you will be able to see the gap. Jointer is old but table itself is flat (better than .0015").

    The only thing done to plane (at least by me), is sharpening the blade, few swipes on cap iron edge, polishing the lever cap, and overall plane clean up using WD-40.

    Front
    IMG_20190604_192534.jpg

    Back
    IMG_20190604_192701.jpg

    Assembled
    IMG_20190604_192751.jpg

    Sole. Looking at it, feels like it has not been used.
    IMG_20190604_192741.jpg

    Cap Iron
    IMG_20190604_192839.jpg

    Blade
    IMG_20190604_192848.jpg

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anuj Prateek View Post
    Noted. Have room for #7. Will size the board accordingly.

    My #7 saves the title of most used plane, for me.

    Another quick question. Does this help with using plane on shooting board: http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/pag...,41182&p=77042


    #7 is Lee Valley custom with standard configuration.
    Does it already have the attachement holes for the handle?

    Otherwise you can make your own:

    https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?130114

    Derek Cohen also makes some they are easy to find under shop made tools on his >inthewoodshop< site.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

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