Quote Originally Posted by Robert Marshall View Post
Roger,

I too have used a WoodCut Bowl Saver Max 3 on a Griz G0766, and enjoyed the combination.

One of the things that I've done, that saves me a some effort, is to work from outside-to-inside, on the coring. The photo you put up suggested inside-to-outside was the way it was done.

What I do is true up the flat area, then put a recess or a tenon on it, within the area that will ultimately be part of the inside bowl blank. Then I start cutting the middle bowl from the outside bowl. When the middle bowl is cut out (which also contains the inside bowl, of course), I use the flat-area tenon/recess that remains, to put a tenon on the bottom of the middle bowl. Then I use that tenon to core out the inside bowl, from the middle. Again, once the inside bowl is cored out, I use the same flat-area tenon/recess to put a tenon on the bottom of the inside bowl. If more than 3 bowls are being cored, the process is the same, just more repetitions.

So, the flat-area tenon/recess is used repeatedly to put tenons on the bottoms of the next inside bowl, working from outside to inside. That way, you are never left with a blank that has only a coring stub on the bottom. The flat-area tenon/recess stays with you to the end, always providing a way to put a tenon on the bottom of the remaining portion left to core.
The way I did it in the pics allows me to have a single hold with a face plate with no changing during the coring process. When I begin the roughout phase, I put a tenon on each bowl. That gives me the needed hold for the finish turn after drying for a few months or longer. Just a different sequence and a preference for each turner to utilize as they see fit. Six of one/half dozen of the other.......both get to the same end result.