What kind of TS setup is this?

[Joe Frank]

Interesting.. so this creates an overhead channel/groove to go through? How do you use a push block/stick through that?

[johnny means]

I wouldn't cut those pieces on a table saw at all. The kerf is too wide for what he is doing and wastes too much wood. I would use a band saw instead, which is just as safe if used correctly.

IME, once you factor in blade wander and clean up, bandsaw don't really yield any better. I'll take clean cuts and maybe one less strip any day.

[Thomas McCurnin]

Thin strips on a table saw can be one of the most dangerous cuts on the TS, next to trying to re-saw on the table saw. For shorter pieces, there are some jigs out there that essentially borrow the design of a taper jig, but without the taper, e.g., a hook as Lowell suggests. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKOefGSSl4A I'm not sure what I would do for really long pieces, except perhaps look into an Incra type sliding index for the fence, use an auxiliary fence as suggested by William Ng. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AddH8IgL7wY&t=2s or cut them as best as I could and take them to a cabinet shop and rent their wide belt sander.

[David Buchhauser]

Thanks for the reply.

That's just it I've not worked on a good band saw to draw any experience from.

Seems as if it wouldn't be too difficult to take the left side of the ts bed off and modify some sort of sliding attachment with some sort of long drawer guides or something of the sorts? Just a thought...

Hi Joe,
I have a sliding attachment mounted to my table saw (removed left wing). I have a shop made rip sled/jig attached to the sliding attachment. With this setup, I can rip thin strips safely. This same jig can also be used to cut tapers. My rip capacity is currently just over 36" (48" if I reposition the sliding attachment). Perhaps you can use this same idea (as you have suggested) and come up an equivalent attachment for your table saw.
David

20190409_225939.jpg 20190409_230010.jpg

[Joe Frank]

Hi Joe,
I have a sliding attachment mounted to my table saw (removed left wing). I have a shop made rip sled/jig attached to the sliding attachment. With this setup, I can rip thin strips safely. This same jig can also be used to cut tapers. My rip capacity is currently just over 36" (48" if I reposition the sliding attachment). Perhaps you can use this same idea (as you have suggested) and come up an equivalent attachment for your table saw.
David

20190409_225939.jpg 20190409_230010.jpg

That sounds awesome. I knew it had to be done somehow before.

For some reason your pics aren't showing up for me

[David Buchhauser]

Hi Joe,
It changed about a month ago that you need to become a Contributor in order to see photos and links at SMC. You can become a contributor for a minimum cost of $6 per year.
Try cut and paste:http://deserthybridscom.ipage.com/Gr...409_225939.jpg
Other photo:http://deserthybridscom.ipage.com/Gr...409_230010.jpg
David

[Joe Frank]

Thank you for allowing me to see the pictures. I will sign up and contribute.


David that is a slick setup! Did you fabricate the sliding attachment rail? How would one source something like that?

I seen Grizzly has a sliding attachment. With the money invested it might be cheaper to get a whole new saw I might think though.

[David Buchhauser]

Hi Joe,
The sliding attachment is from Grizzly. Price is around $750. The rip jig is shop built. It would probably be possible to build a sliding attachment from scratch using fully supported linear rails with sliding bearing blocks. This would require some design and fabrication of some of the parts - in either metal or wood. Let me know if you want more information on a scratch build and I will send you a sketch of a potential assembly.
David

[Joe Frank]

Thanks for taking the time David. That may be a little out of my price range. I think I'd rather grab a better band saw.

I may bend your ear on crafting something up. And that table you made looks great!