Minimax S45n and blade drift

[Sylvan Wells]

I am a new owner of a used Minimax S45n. I am unable to find a manual online. Does anyone have one they would share? Also, I cannot figure out how to set the fence for the blade drift. Can anyone help! Thanks so much!
Sylvan

[Tom Trees]

Set the fence parallel to the table slot, and loosen the 4 trunnion bolts moving the table to sort blade drift.
Don't slack off the last bolt too much though as, it makes adjustments easier
Good luck with your new saw Sylvan
Tom

[Edwin Santos]

Here's a second vote for what Tom is suggesting. In addition, pay attention to whether the blade is centered in the kerf as you adjust the table. When it is centered, you should be set. Here is a video that demonstrates the technique: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vNdrkmx6ehI

I've never seen one up close but it looks to be a good saw, congratulations.

[Randall J Cox]

I have an S45 Minimax, green one. Mine has flat rubber tires. With wider blades (I run 1/2"), teeth should be just off the edge of the tire....if you have flat rubber tires. Good saw, like mine. Randy

[Bill Dufour]

What is it? some kind of saw? Thin kerf blades can flex at speed. Maybe blade stablizers or, better guides if it is a bandsaw.

[Jamie Buxton]

I don't know that bandsaw, but I can't believe you must move the table to deal with blade drift. The drift angle changes from blade to blade, and even changes on a given blade as it dulls. Adjusting the table is a fairly big deal. I'd expect the fence to have some angle adjustment scheme built into it. If it doesn't, I'd replace it with one that does.

A common adjustment scheme is that you can loosen the bolts that connect the fence part to the part that slides along the rail. Loosen one bolt, tap the fence a bit, and re-tighten.

[Edwin Santos]

I don't know that bandsaw, but I can't believe you must move the table to deal with blade drift. The drift angle changes from blade to blade, and even changes on a given blade as it dulls. Adjusting the table is a fairly big deal. I'd expect the fence to have some angle adjustment scheme built into it. If it doesn't, I'd replace it with one that does.

A common adjustment scheme is that you can loosen the bolts that connect the fence part to the part that slides along the rail. Loosen one bolt, tap the fence a bit, and re-tighten.

Jamie,
There are different schools of thought on this.
I am a subscriber to the belief that if you tune the saw and adjust the table in the way recommended ONCE, you will eliminate blade drift permanently and your fence should remain parallel to the miter slot for ever more. I joined this school of thought after trying it in my workshop (with some skepticism I might add), and never looking back.

The added bonus is that if you are a person who might make jigs that utilize the miter slot (such as sleds), then having the miter slot parallel to the blade is essential.

I am aware that there is another school of thought that believes drift to be a fickle, ever present companion that must be addressed with a new adjustment every time you turn around. I used to live there, but I don't anymore.

This is not to say I'm right and you're wrong, I just wanted to elaborate and give you the method to the madness behind the table adjustment recommendation. I'm also a proponent of experimentation before settling on best practice in one's own shop. Cheers,

[Matthew Hills]

Edwin,
The adjust table once (think I’ve seen this in a Michael Fortune video) assumes the blade is good enough, and not excessively dulled on one side, right?

Matt

[Rod Sheridan]

Jamie,
There are different schools of thought on this.
I am a subscriber to the belief that if you tune the saw and adjust the table in the way recommended ONCE, you will eliminate blade drift permanently and your fence should remain parallel to the miter slot for ever more. I joined this school of thought after trying it in my workshop (with some skepticism I might add), and never looking back.

The added bonus is that if you are a person who might make jigs that utilize the miter slot (such as sleds), then having the miter slot parallel to the blade is essential.

I am aware that there is another school of thought that believes drift to be a fickle, ever present companion that must be addressed with a new adjustment every time you turn around. I used to live there, but I don't anymore.

This is not to say I'm right and you're wrong, I just wanted to elaborate and give you the method to the madness behind the table adjustment recommendation. I'm also a proponent of experimentation before settling on best practice in one's own shop. Cheers,

This is how I teach saw alignment, although many saws have dowels which prevent moving the table.

If the blade is worn and needs replacing, do that....Rod

[Mike Kees]

I am also in the camp of tuning your saw and never looking back. "Blade drift" is as stated above a blade issue or a saw that is not yet adjusted properly.