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Thread: Large bandsaw fence suggestions needed

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Large bandsaw fence suggestions needed

    Iíve got a 24Ē bandsaw in need of a fence. Iím not sure if the fences for standard 14Ē size saws would suffice or not. Suggestions?

    I also have a little Heston & Anderson no. 1 in need of a fence, but itís easier to find information for it.

    Not looking to break the bank btw.

    Thanks
    Last edited by Matt Day; 05-23-2019 at 3:01 PM.

  2. #2
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    Just a suggestion, you could use one or two of these as a base and attach a tall board to give you whatever height and length you need.

    I added an extra mag switch magnet to mine and it is almost impossible to move.

    It also helped me to dial out my bandsaw drift.


    https://www.amazon.com/CARTER-MAGFEN...a-568021583262


  3. #3
    Times 2 on the Carter Fence

  4. #4
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    Do you have to align it every time you move it?
    Last edited by Matt Day; 05-23-2019 at 5:27 PM.

  5. #5
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    If you are looking for something simple what I was using before upgrading to a bandsaw that came with a fence is a section of commercial store front aluminum. I got a piece for a few bucks from the locak glass company. It's the aluminum extrusion that holds the glass. The stuff comes in all sizes and shapes. Some comes with a plastic thermal barrier, I got one that was 100% aluminum. Often glass shops have cut offs that they've had for years but never used. I just used two c-clamps to hold it in place. The magnetic Carter fence looked interesting but it's not that cheap and like my idea you have to square it up each time.

    5-1.jpg

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the suggestion Alex, but if I am going to make something itíd be from 80/20 or the like extruded aluminum.

  7. #7
    I put an extra unifence that I had on my 30" bandsaw. It works well.
    IMG_0244.jpg

  8. #8
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    I hadnít thought about using a TS fence, good thought.

  9. #9
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    Matt--i've got a Laguna fence from an 18" saw (not a Driftmaster) that i picked up several years ago. Was way too big for my 14" saw, so it's kicking around the garage. I'll try to get a pic to you. Shipping wasn't cheap when i bought it--but i'm only 90 minutes or so from W Lafayette. Will hit the garage before i head to work.
    earl

  10. #10
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    Matt,

    If you have machine shop capabilities (you do IIRC), a nice big slab of cast iron, just a few inches longer than the blade position and running a linear rail would be pretty ideal. I'd put a bronze foot on it as well.

    Personally, I'd like more infeed length than the manufacturers typically offer and less outfeed.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Day View Post
    Do you have to align it every time you move it?
    I've always wanted to know this!

    I like the idea of a tablesaw fence, which could have a micro adjuster. Also, it is probably unnecessary to have a fence across the full length of the table. A couple of inches past the blade is probably a good idea, which will minimise binding but offer support past the blade.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  12. #12
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    As much as making a fence would be fun, I donít need another project and I want to get this done.

    The Kreg fence is leading the pack right now in my mind. Looks like Fence can be moved in and out and I could replace the fence part with some other longer extrusion if necessary.

  13. #13
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    Originally Posted by Matt Day
    Do you have to align it every time you move it?





    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    I've always wanted to know this!


    Derek
    Yes you do have to align the Carter Mag fence each time. I have the set of Carter magnetic spacers.






    These attach to the back of the blade, by a magnet, and allow you to slide the fence up to the spacer. You can stack the spacers and you can always get to the thickness you need by using your own custom wood spacers to compliment the Carter Aluminum spacer(s).

    With the spacer, on the blade, it really helped me identify my drift when comparing the gap with the fence that came with my bandsaw. I was able to tweak my drift out of the wheels and then fine tune adjust my permanent fence, so I always cut perfectly parallel.

    I also use the Carter as a stop, perpendicular to the fence, beyond the cut, to limit a depth of cut when needing to make repeatable cuts for things like tenon shoulders.

  14. #14


    A good design worth thinking about?
    Tom

  15. #15
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    Hi Chris,

    I have both the Kreg fence, currently on a Delta 14" saw, and the Laguna Driftmaster fence that was formerly on a General 20" model. I consider both to be a significant step up from the detachable magnetic fences (I have the MagSwitch model rather than the Carter).

    You mentioned not wanting to break the bank, but the Laguna Driftmaster (~$400 USD) really is sturdy and a pleasure to use. At a little over $100, the Kreg fence is a quality product and high value. The ability to easily adjust either fence for drift angle is worth the respective investment.

    If each of these options are currently beyond your budget, I'd be inclined to use a jointed board clamped to the saw table until you save up some change. I used this method for several years, before I bought the Driftmaster. Mine included a hook at one end to snugly catch on the back-side of the table, and was slightly relieved on the underside of both ends like a bow clamp. This bow design allows the fence board to be secured to the table with only a single clamp on the front, in addition to the rear hook, making it surprisingly quick to adjust.

    Good luck with your saw.

    Regards,
    Ryan

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