Must have safety accessories for older TS

[Joe Frank]

When making those 'L' shaped push sticks, be aware of the grain if you use solid wood. You don't want to have the handle connected to the bottom with just a bit of horizontal grain. Snap!

I make mine from plywood. Much less chance of it breaking.

Hello Joe,

I use the 1/8" version of the Freud 24T (LM72R010) as my primary ripping blade on the TS3660, and I have been satisfied with it. So long as the blade is clean and my pace is even, I can usually rip 8/4 sugar/rock maple without burning or excessive bogging.

When I do notice the saw starting to struggle, I simply make my cut in two passes rather than one. I have occasionally had issues with deflection when using thin kerfed blades (the saw plate is also thinner), and given the above I chose the heavier option. I also lack the ambition to make and manage any more zero-clearance throat plates than I have to, so I have standardized on 1/8” blades in my shop.

I do not have experience with the Freud Glue Line blade you mentioned. As a general comment, I recommend dedicated ripping and crosscutting blades rather than a combination offering. Eventually you will want multiples of each style so you can keep working when one is out of rotation for cleaning or sharpening.

Regards,
Ryan

*edited for formatting

Thanks Charles will do!

[Jon Grider]

Lots of sage advice here, but my 2 cents. You said you have a bandsaw, the few kickbacks I've had on my TS occur when ripping. You can always use your bandsaw to rip a little oversize to relieve internal stress, re-joint, and then use the jointed edge against your TS fence to rip to final dimension.

[Joe Frank]

Thanks for the reply..

The unfortunate thing is my lightweight Ryobi band saw won't cut 8/4.. at least in a days time ha. Been contemplating on getting a 16" band saw used for this purpose and others though.

[Brian Holcombe]

I like a bandsaw for rough prep also,

[Thomas McCurnin]

My assumption is that this saw is a table saw as opposed to a cabinet saw. David is right--my experience with a well used Craftsman and Delta table saw is that once a year I had to adjust the fence, actually loosen the table, and make the miter slots parallel to the blade. The fence follows the table in those models. Cabinet saws are more robust and rarely need any adjustment to the trunion.

Once properly tuned, I do not need any special safety devices.

Of course, I make my own pile of push sticks, buy or make feather boards, make an auxiliary sacrificial fences, auxiliary miter gauges, taper jig etc. I don't let my fingers anywhere near the blade and unplug the saw whenever I change blades or have to get my fingers near the blade. Safety is a habit and there is no substitute (jig or device) which can replace your brain.

[Joe Frank]

Thanks for the tips!

I think it's whats considered a hybrid saw. It's a ridgid ts3660 with a decent sized cast iron table. I just finished cleaning the rust off the bed and am still piecing her together. Not the easiest by yourself ha.. she must be 300+lbs.

Im definitely still doing research on resawing techniques. I may just lower my teeth count on my band saw blade and get a jointer for my 8/4 pieces. Most of these pieces will fit on the bs table.

[Charles Lent]

Joe,

Keep in mind that if you attach a laser to the ceiling it will need to be re-adjusted every time you move your saw. It's best to do this if your saw won't be moved. My Unisaw has only been moved 2 times in the last 17 years, to get other tools moved in or out of my shop. Both times It was necessary to re-adjust the laser on my ceiling to be in line with the saw blade, because I couldn't get the Unisaw back exactly where it had been before.

Charley